Is there a a low-tech sheet collection solution for small dinghies?

Neat boat- what is it?

Anyway, How about a setup like a Laser with a bridle? Might save some line. (Unless I’m understanding your line drawing incorrectly…)

A double vang for center of effort and leach/luff control like some of standing lug skiffs (Goat Island Skiff comes to mind) are doing might cut down on how much force you need for your main sheet, since it would be mainly for incidence control instead of controlling the leach. Might move your sail around and see if you could get less force on your boom that way, if it doesn’t mess up balance or ability to let the sail out.

here’s a crude cartoon of the double vang control seen from the side

stern is left, bow is right

|
|
————-
\|/

| = mast

——- = boom

\ / = bangs

Storer’s site has some stuff on this under high performance standing lugs, IIRR

Some Finn sailors call this ‘the rope floor’ :cool:
 
Doubt this would lead to a solution for you, but I thought I'd share my favorite cord reel. If you nip the anti-roll tabs off the outer rim of side with knob (so knob fits downward in bucket) it will fit inside a standard 5gal or 3.5gal bucket. You could trim down the rims further and it would fit deep enough for Bucket-Boss seat.
https://www.amazon.com/Bayco-KW-110-Storage-Center-100-Feet
I'm an old construction worker and even I hate getting dirty rolling up cords, and what kills most cords is they get torqued and twisted when rolled up, not that they get damaged from actual use, even being dragged around.


But have you investigated Cord Reels from vacuum cleaners? They seem quite serviceable, compact and lite-weight. Main thing is they have IMO very good well engineered House Wife friendly perfect ergonomics for both the force of pullout and retraction, but also an automatic Stop and Lock along with its partner Tug to Disengage Lock and Retract. You can pull out cord easy, then IIRC you engage the lock by stopping payout and letting it pull back a tiny bit. I'm pretty sure there are a couple variations of this, like where you can keep the Retraction on, or where you can activate Retraction by toe-tapping a large button.

A "factory replacement" Vacuum winder can be $80+, but that is probably the top of the line. But I'd say you lucked out because the diameter and length of cord would be pre-engineered pretty close to what you want. Google Search https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-e&q=vacuum+cord+winder
 
Neat boat- what is it?

Anyway, How about a setup like a Laser with a bridle? Might save some line. (Unless I’m understanding your line drawing incorrectly…)

A double vang for center of effort and leach/luff control like some of standing lug skiffs (Goat Island Skiff comes to mind) are doing might cut down on how much force you need for your main sheet, since it would be mainly for incidence control instead of controlling the leach. Might move your sail around and see if you could get less force on your boom that way, if it doesn’t mess up balance or ability to let the sail out.

here’s a crude cartoon of the double vang control seen from the side

stern is left, bow is right

|
|
————-
\|/

| = mast

——- = boom

\ / = bangs

Storer’s site has some stuff on this under high performance standing lugs, IIRR

Some Finn sailors call this ‘the rope floor’ :cool:

Thank you! This boat is a custom design, inspired by International Canoe, National 12, RS 300 and a few others. I have an article about the design and build here if you want to take a look.

As for suggestion, yes, I have seen this on GIS. If I understand it right, the way it reduces the forces on the sheet is because the attachment points on the deck are offset from the mast (which is the rotation axis for the boom), meaning a component of vang tension tries to bring the boom back to center. I noticed this effect even with a single vang on my first boat with lug rig. Issue with this is that the force isn't that great, not really noticeable in strong winds, but pretty annoying in light winds, as it brings the boom to the center when you actually need it out.

Can you clarify on that Laser "bridle"? I am not sure what that means.

Doubt this would lead to a solution for you, but I thought I'd share my favorite cord reel. If you nip the anti-roll tabs off the outer rim of side with knob (so knob fits downward in bucket) it will fit inside a standard 5gal or 3.5gal bucket. You could trim down the rims further and it would fit deep enough for Bucket-Boss seat.
https://www.amazon.com/Bayco-KW-110-Storage-Center-100-Feet
I'm an old construction worker and even I hate getting dirty rolling up cords, and what kills most cords is they get torqued and twisted when rolled up, not that they get damaged from actual use, even being dragged around.


But have you investigated Cord Reels from vacuum cleaners? They seem quite serviceable, compact and lite-weight. Main thing is they have IMO very good well engineered House Wife friendly perfect ergonomics for both the force of pullout and retraction, but also an automatic Stop and Lock along with its partner Tug to Disengage Lock and Retract. You can pull out cord easy, then IIRC you engage the lock by stopping payout and letting it pull back a tiny bit. I'm pretty sure there are a couple variations of this, like where you can keep the Retraction on, or where you can activate Retraction by toe-tapping a large button.

A "factory replacement" Vacuum winder can be $80+, but that is probably the top of the line. But I'd say you lucked out because the diameter and length of cord would be pre-engineered pretty close to what you want. Google Search https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-e&q=vacuum+cord+winder

Thank you, that looks quite chunky, but I'll investigate this possibility. This is something I should have probably tested and designed into the boat in the earlier stages, as right now such a drum would stick out like a sore thumb, but maybe I'll come up with something.
 
The Laser uses a line as a traveler. I think the term ‘bridle’ is an old term for it? Spelling? Anyway, might save some line, sheet from the boom….

If a 2 vang system was attached to the mast instead of the deck, that might help if your mast rotates.

What is your structure in the hull for controlling twist in the hull when you’re hiked out on the wings?



IMG_0071.jpeg
 
The Laser uses a line as a traveler. I think the term ‘bridle’ is an old term for it? Spelling? Anyway, might save some line, sheet from the boom….

If a 2 vang system was attached to the mast instead of the deck, that might help if your mast rotates.

What is your structure in the hull for controlling twist in the hull when you’re hiked out on the wings?

Right, thanks for the clarification. Yeah, I could do that, but then I'd have to run the sheet back through the boom (I suppose it's the same as running it along the floor in terms of length), it might save 1 meter of sheet, maybe 1.5 m, but I don't think it would make much of a difference... I could be wrong though. As for the vang, even if it helps a bit, I don't think I could go as low as 1:1 for the mainsheet... That would be crazy for a sail of this size. I am not that strong :D

As for the hull twist, well, it's a double wall hull (with lots of interior volume), so that alone gives it more than enough rigidity. Check the link I posted before to the build pictures, they show much better than I could explain.
 
rig a small weight from a cord using the mast's height.

I'm thinking a system of fixed mounted pulleys to get the rope to front of the mast, then up to top of mast, then down to inside the hollow mast and inside is the weight.
 
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making any potentially dangerous or financial decision, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.

  • Back
    Top