12' Low-Power Electric Planing Skiff – Design Review

How about the Seahawk dory skiff by Phil Bolger? I have a book with plans but you'll find it online. 15ft 6in. x 4ft 2in. but you could chop off 2ft of length and reduce scantlings (and maybe freeboard) to save weight. Picture in the book shows it planing with a 7.5hp and one person and most of the bottom is out of the water; I suspect it would plane on far less.
I built an electric outboard on an old Evinrude leg, 2:1 reduction in the gearbox gives a wider choice of motors, hard to find low Kv motors.
 
The completely flat bottom aft is a combination of what I have read and what GPT calculated for an “optimal” lightweight planing hull. My understanding is that the larger surface area in contact with the water will get the most lift but you are probably correct that once on plane this becomes less desirable.
Flat bottom craft plane quite well, and naturally reduce their wetted area as speed increases. Adding deadrise increases wetted area, and also reduces the efficiency of planing for the same reason that adding dihedral in an airplane reduces wing effectiveness: the lift vector is no longer pointed in the optimum direction. In an aircraft, there can be good reasons for adding dihedral (such as augmenting stability), but those reasons are not for improving L/D. Thus HP sailplanes have negligible dihedral. In the same way, deep V boats are more comfortable, and track well, but are not as efficient as flat bottom craft, in terms of the power per pound to sustain a particular planing speed. All this is discussed in Savitsky's classic paper on planing resistance. It is available here.

Dihedral taken to extremes ends up looking like a v-shaped catamaran hull, which has a snowball's chance of planing because the area is low and the direction of dynamic force is all wrong.

If you look at the Bolger design that Alan Craig linked, you will see that it is similar in key ways to your own design, in particular having a flat bottom that extends quite far forward of the transom. You could do worse than to follow in the footsteps of Bolger.

However, if you add some deadrise aft, the boat could be slightly lighter, because the keel will add some stiffness that otherwise requires stringers. (Deflection increases with the cube of span.) If anything, it is likely to be a little easier to build, because there is less twist in the bottom panels (less angular difference from forward to aft sections).

In a small boat like yours, you have a lot of control over CG location just by shifting the driver's weight. Taken to extremes, this sort of control shows up in windsurfers, which have near zero rocker and zero deadrise, and plane extremely well. At speed, only the aft foot or so remains in the water. I find it interesting, but not too surprising, that traditional windsurfers have been shown to be faster than foil boards. My microfoiler is an experiment, and at some point I will probably remove the foils and make it plane. I am not expecting a huge difference in top speed. For electric craft, I think there are intermediate speeds at which foiling is more efficient than planing that could be exploited.

You might want to read up on humpless planing hulls, something Frank Bethwaite wrote about. I played around with a humpless design on my Windrocket, which under ideal conditions would do just under three times wind speed (or so my computer said -- I didn't have good windspeed measuring equipment on board). I had it going 32 knots in wind averaging 10 knots on shore. (I don't know how much higher it may have been on the water... but there certainly were not whitecaps). On the Windrocket, part of the means to lowering the hump was extremely low weight, and another was narrow beam (which would ordinarily reduce planing efficiency -- everything is a tradeoff). DLR was about 38.
 
As Wing Guy mentioned in response my earlier comments, you will want to shoot for a 8/9/10 outboard leg to use, preferably a 2-stroke as I suggested.

Smaller HP legs as he mentioned limit your prop size due to the anti-cavitation plate.

An 8/9/10 HP ICE is capable of getting most small planing hull designs to plane, so as long as you pair the leg with an electric motor capable of reaching 5000 or so max RPM, you should be good to go.

The problem as I mentioned earlier is reaching those high RPM’s requires higher voltage and the design is prone to overheating which can be combat by over sizing and volting the motor so that it isn’t working hard when cruising.

Most quality made motors and ESC’s can handle short peak high current draw that could be used for say getting on plane.

This spec will have a limit set by the manufacturers often described as Peak versus Continuous.

The only other major drawback to the Outboard leg with motor atop design is that it will be quite noisy.

Some ESC’s can be very winy due to the components, while other much quieter.

The trade off for designs where the ESC and motor are contained in the housing below the water is of course the potential for water intrusion and seal failure and the size of the motor housing and flow of water to prop when you start scaling things up and are shooting for speeds faster than hull speed.
 
The first thing I would do is significantly lengthen the hull. I’m assuming this is a single-person boat.
A 12-footer would be too sensitive regarding longitudinal stability and hole-shot performance.
Depending on the boat's total weight, I would aim for a minimum of 15 feet, or even up to 18 feet.
Beam: 31–35 inches.
Bottom shape: trapezoidal . Ratio of flat foot width to deadrise width let's say, to start with, three equal sections with option of further mods of deadrise angle and other proportions .
Vertical boards—or, likely better, boards sloped inward toward the hull.

Using an outboard motor's lower unit, while tempting, is not a very good solution:
The gearbox is large—with a wide diameter due to the gears—and the propeller features an exhaust outlet.
 
Or maybe , depending on power available the hydro hull is proven effective hull.
 
The first thing I would do is significantly lengthen the hull. I’m assuming this is a single-person boat.
A 12-footer would be too sensitive regarding longitudinal stability and hole-shot performance.
Depending on the boat's total weight, I would aim for a minimum of 15 feet, or even up to 18 feet.
Beam: 31–35 inches.
Bottom shape: trapezoidal . Ratio of flat foot width to deadrise width let's say, to start with, three equal sections with option of further mods of deadrise angle and other proportions .
Vertical boards—or, likely better, boards sloped inward toward the hull.

Using an outboard motor's lower unit, while tempting, is not a very good solution:
The gearbox is large—with a wide diameter due to the gears—and the propeller features an exhaust outlet.

The gearbox is not wide nor is there a prop exhaust outlet on smaller outboards, bigger ones yes.

There are many advantages to using the lower unit and leg, too many to pass up for most unless you like designing bevel gear cases, transom mounts with tilt and trim, and 3D printing slippery leg housings.

As an aside, Elco for example uses new Yamaha lowers coupled with their motors and ESC’s.

You can buy knock-offs very inexpensively if you want something brand spanking new.

But for the size of this boat weight is going to be very important, so my money is on an older lighter weight 2-stroke leg assembly.
 
Building the boat is not an issue I have very good woodworking skills and a decent shop with all required tools. My issue is that I don’t have any real experience with boats. I looked at stock plans and read as much as I could and used Chat GPT for working through several design ideas. Admittedly AI is very good for engineering work but I am not sure it’s great for designing boats

The completely flat bottom aft is a combination of what I have read and what GPT calculated for an “optimal” lightweight planing hull. My understanding is that the larger surface area in contact with the water will get the most lift but you are probably correct that once on plane this becomes less desirable.

I can certainly add some dead rise if would make the boat better overall.

As I continue to work on propulsion the hull can change because originally I was just trying to get on plane with a lightweight hull but now that I am moving to a more powerful motor I can change hull design accordingly. I like the idea of designing everything from “scratch” but I do understand that this might not get me the best finished boat.

Most of the stock plans I have found are either row boats that can run small outboards or power skiffs that require higher power. I think the “electric skiff” has not really been considered by most boat designers because it is a newer concept and really power with commercial electric outboards is cost prohibitive for most people that want a small DIY boat…..open to suggestions for hull design.

Have you considered a semi-planing hull design like a catamaran instead?
 
As a practical electric drive solution outboard's leg , it’s fine.

But ideally, I’d like a direct drive with an efficient propeller matched to the motor.
Why not, for instance, a surface-piercing propeller?
 
I've thought about designing a surface piercing prop arrangement for an electric boat, but have not done so. It's nice to keep the motor and drive shaft out of the water. I have also thought about a toothed belt drive, and found that these can be reliable with surprisingly small pulleys, so the lower unit could be small and streamlined and the leg could be very thin, perhaps molded in carbon fiber. Also, have not done that. A streamlined fairing over a conventional prop shaft can reduce drag, and can lend itself to intermediate support of the prop shaft, making a smaller diameter prop shaft possible.

I think to OP should be looking for this kind of performance: http://speedonthewater.com//images/2015_images/racecityskiff-02.jpg
 
Thanks for all the ideas! I did consider a long prop shaft through the transom with the motor inboard and still like the idea but wasn’t sure about having the prop at an angle, water tight hull, etc. but this set up would be perfect for a belt drive and you could experiment with different ratios.

The underwater direct drive was my first thought and probably the most elegant solution and is a proven concept in the market but again a complete fabrication job and the motors would need a lower kv to get the rpm’s down in a typical outboard range or start dealing with custom props. Etc. Flipsky and Maytech are the only options I found that looked good. I think for a displacement hull this is the perfect solution because you are not really looking for high power…..maybe this is the next boat. I found several plans that would be good including the electric canoe.

So I found a 1974 4hp mercury local to me for $50 and decided to go this route as it’s a proven reliable way to move the boat. My understanding is the drive shaft gear box and prop shaft are all shared with the motors up to 10hp and judging by the materials used in the motor I think that is accurate. I forgot to weigh it but will tomorrow and report back.

As it stands tonight I pulled out the crank shaft for the driveshaft fitting and the gear shift fitting so they can be reused as needed. I drained the gear case oil and it looks decent so hopefully it’s all good.

Next step is designing the power set up to fit atop this lower unit and finding a good motor option with out breaking the budget. I really like the golden 3kw motor but it’s $400…..maybe.
 

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Almost flat and slender . And it flies beautifully.
Thrust vector I dislike.
The advantage of an inclined thrust vector is that it can pass through the boat's center of gravity, so changes in power have less affect on trim. Also the vertical component of that vector helps lift the boat. Of course forward thrust is reduced, but not a great deal.
 
I was talking to a hydro driver, and he said he didn't need trim. The shaft angle was similar.
Drag boats have a similar setup, too.
 
Not how I would fabricate the exterior shell but a decent concept of the mechanical structure and parts. More than I can take on right now but maybe down the road if I can get my current project to work. The motor, esc and battery could be reused in this design.
 

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BTW, I have had good luck with Motenergy motors (which have ancestry back to the Briggs and Stratton Etek). Worth looking into them.

Also, as you probably know, it is worth looking at the efficiency curves for any of the likely motors. The efficiency curve is pretty broad, but it is nevertheless worth keeping the motor at near its peak at the designed operating condition. In my experience, most of the motors with published output curves can meet their specs (and the curve printouts that ship with each Motenergy motor are actual printouts from the dyno test of the particular motor in the box... i.e. that serial number.)

Also, I am a fan of electric vehicles, but not a fan of wild claims regarding them. My Ford F150 Lightning, with its roughly 500 hp, performs like any f150 with that power output, as standard measures like 0-60 time show. (Top speed, however, is limited to a lower figure than the Raptor's top speed.) It is, of course, much cheaper to operate, with my electricity cost being about the equivalent of buying gas at $.80 per gallon. Modern trucks and cars almost instantly find the correct gear (out of 8 or 10) so the "awesome instant torque" of an electric motor is a subjective but not practical advantage. (My truck is fun to drive, however, with its low center of gravity and far better suspension contributing to much better handling than the average F150.)

The inflation of specs that was started by Torqeedo and then further propagated by EPropusion is fictitious. A 1kw motor is not equal to a 3 hp outboard. Typically an efficient (90%) one kw motor produces .9 x 1000/746 or 1.2 hp.
 
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