Someofthegear
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- Jun 6, 2017
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It's not difficult to rent the gear and do blasting yourself and much less expensive though it still costs a lot. I started blasting a few years ago to complete a steel boat project but there was a demand for it in the yard and I have done a fair bit since, mostly on trawlers.
Thanks for the info on the Tercoo. I watched some of the promotional videos for it and wasn't much impressed but it does look as though it could be useful for stripping back soft or gummy coatings which are slow to blast because they absorb grit.
Yes, the range of movement is small so the tacks don't usually crack when pushing on the lever but on the other hand when you're done you can easily twist it free by hand. If the tacks to the lever do crack then maybe try them with 7018 rods which is more crack resistant. Obviously, you'll have to grind all the tacks off after so you want them to be as small as possible.
When you perimeter weld after, keep down the length of continuous weld and keep the welds as small as you can consistent with doing the job. The long edge welds will cumulatively contract which has an effect similar to pulling a thread in a loose weave fabric causing the fabric to ruffle either side of the thread. You can see lots of chine steel hulls with a wave in the chines that is caused by weld shrinkage. I'm guessing that there probably won't be much framing on the inside of your hull to keep the plates fair.
Good luck with that...it's depressing; I well know! If you are careful though you should be able to recycle most of the material when putting it back.
Post some photos of progress..
Thanks. I was planning to back step weld or just jump around all over to keep the heat down. I'm pretty slow so it'll have plenty of time to cool
I was going to cut two slots in the middle of each plate to weld to the original. Any size and shape recommended?
I will take pics of the better welds!