Using stainless steel screws in wooden boats

[PAR]

If I have to cut into a fastener head, it will be the proper size bit for a bolt extractor. There's no sense in fooling around with a stubborn fastener. If it doesn't come out with a reasonable try, then drill it, back it out a 1/4" with a bolt extractor and twist it out the rest of the way with a pair of vice grips.

 

[alan white]

They make a hand held impact driver of sorts. You smack it with a hammer and it backs or drives whatever bit (or socket) you have on it. These work pretty good too.

They work alright. I just wish I could find bits for the darn thing (more easily).

 

[PAR]

Standard impact bits work on these little puppies, though the cheap ones will shatter, if you're "convincing" too hard. They fit in a 1/4" hex socket, so any 3/8" drive 1/4" impact socket will do. I use bits designed for impact hammers, available at any real tool supply.

 

[missinginaction]

A lot of good technique and information here. Something that I don't see mentioned is the application of torque in a clockwise and counterclockwise direction. I can't tell you how many times I've seen people break the heads off screws or bolts by simply cranking them counterclockwise with excessive force.

I was taught years ago to work the fastener back and forth. First actually applying force in a clockwise direction (tightening) but doing so relatively gently, then working the fastener back and forth. This often breaks the fastener free after a few cycles without any heat being needed. Of course as has been stated heat will be quite helpful of the screw is really stuck in there. Just work it gently back and forth.

 

[PAR]

Yeah, on a rusted bolt, the first direction I turn is clockwise, mostly to see if it'll move, but also to break the corrosion bond line. I turn to a blue tipped wrench on bolts in metal, very quickly, as it's a lot easier than other methods. In wood, impact works well, but more often then not, I'm drilling the darned thing and putting an "easyout" in it.