Stringer to Transom and Hairline Hull Crack Repair

[E350]

The white spots are indeed photography artifacts from lighting except for the wrinkle over the exhaust hole. When I cut out the exhaust hole with the 3 1/8" hole saw, the material was 3/16" thick. I will look at everything closely and even upload more photos before I redo the weep holes.

Wayne at Fiberglass Hawaii in Ventura, CA says that none of the gel coat which they sell is compatible with epoxy layups. So, at least just to increase my knowledge, if you don't mind, I would like to know what gel coat formulations are which you recommend.

Wayne suggested that I use an epoxy paint. Which I am happy to do, but do you have any suggestions?

My go to paint for brushing, rolling or spraying just about everything (which would likely not be appropriate in this situation) is Valspar Tractor & Implement Paint with Valspar Enamel Hardener.

 

[Blueknarr]

I'm glad to hear they are photo affections. You are doing great. Even though must of my post dealt with potential issues.

I don't know of any post epoxy gelcoats. Ondarvr talks about there being some epoxy compatible gelcoats.

Valspar would be a wise choice for you because of your familiarity with it. IMO you will achieve a ten year service life. The best 2pack polyurethane could last three decades. You are unlikely to achieve this longevity with your first attempt.

By the way epoxy makes great primers, but is not appropriate as a topcoating. It is too easily broken down by UV.

 

[E350]

Without getting too mushy ... you are a Blessing and your advice is a treasure.

Thank you, I now know what to do.

 

[ondarvr]

Epoxy makes a good substrate for most paints, and the tractor supply product works well for the price. Adding the hardener makes it even better.

There are some gel coats that are epoxy compatible, Duratec has a full line of products, but for this an easy to find paint will work well.

 

[E350]

Blessings to you too @ondarvr

My wife and I also live on the river.
In our case the Sacramento River.
I assume the Skykomish River in your case.
(P.S. I am not done being foolish with the 1967 Rebel yet. I just have to put that aside for now...)

Enjoy Independence Day!

I have one more day of fiberglass itch before then.

Take care.

 

[ondarvr]

I just recently moved from the Skykomish river to the Spokane river arm of Lake Roosevelt. Sold my other property to the Feds, state and county to turn back into natural terrain.

I really enjoyed that place, and really like this one too.

 

[E350]

This morning is the time to clean up the work and clean up the weep holes and likely pull a few seam tape layers through the weep holes.

So, if you guys have time today, my question is this:

Do I need to remove the amine blush with soap and water PRIOR to laying up a layer on the weep holes?

Another way to ask it is this:

Should the amine blush be removed from cured epoxy fiberglass prior to adding a second layer of epoxy fiberglass?

 

[fleix]

Should the amine blush be removed from cured epoxy fiberglass prior to adding a second layer of epoxy fiberglass?

Yes, thats mandatory. It's best to work wet in wet for the chemical bond. If you aren't able to do so, you have to get rid of the amine blush prior to the new layers because epoxy won't stick to it.

 

[E350]

Understood. Thank you fleix!