Hunt 14 Project - Stringer and transom layup.

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by ian_upton, Sep 26, 2016.

  1. ian_upton
    Joined: Apr 2006
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    Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan

    ian_upton Junior Member

    I have a small project going on and am getting conflicting information about stringer layup schedule.

    Background:
    Hull is a 14 foot Ray Hunt designed hull built by O'Day in the early 60's.
    .[​IMG]

    I have stripped it down to the bare hull, lots of grinding to remove the majority of the stringer tabbing, etc.
    [​IMG]

    New transom is in 3/4" Coosa across the entire transom and a double layer in the middle there the outboard will be mounted. Between the two layers is a layer of 1708 and a layer of mat. Bonded to transom with a VE bonding compound. Using VE resin so far. Inner glass is two layers of 1708.
    [​IMG]

    Stringers are 3/4" Coosa. They have been scribed to hull and will be held in place (off the hull bottom) with the jig shown below such that I can use the same VE bonding putty to hold them in place before tabbing. Each stringer has 2 layers of 1708 on each side.
    [​IMG]

    That brings me to where I currently stand.

    For the transom, I have been told that the coosa with original skin on outside and two layers of 1708 on the inside is MORE than enough for a 75ish HP outboard. I initially thought that I would put a 3 layer on, but if what I already is more than sufficient I would not.

    For the stringers, my thought was tabbing with two layers of 1708 onto the hull of 4" and 6" then capping the stringers with some 4" Unidirectional tape that I have.

    Am I on the correct path?

    Thanks in advance.

    Ian.
     
  2. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    gonzo Senior Member

    Yes, all the laminations seem to exceed the original. The transom will be fine with two layers of 1708. A metal plate to spread the force of the mounting bolts for the outboard is a good idea.
     
  3. ian_upton
    Joined: Apr 2006
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    Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan

    ian_upton Junior Member

    Thank You. I was hoping for that response. The Coosa being used for this portion of the project if the Bluewater 26.
     
  4. ian_upton
    Joined: Apr 2006
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    Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan

    ian_upton Junior Member

    Since I think I am on the correct track with the layup schedule...

    I put 2 layers of 1708 on each side. I primed the hull bottom with neat resin as well as the underside of the stringers, then spent some time making sure the fixture was perfectly positioned, the stringers were properly aligned and at the correct height.
    [​IMG]

    Once everything was set, I "tacked" the stringer in place with bonding putty.
    [​IMG]

    Next step will be to fill the rest of the gap between hull and stringer, add some fillets and tab everything in place with 2 more layers of 1708 extending 4" and 6" onto the hull bottom.

    Ian.
     
  5. Mr Efficiency
    Joined: Oct 2010
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    I've seen some of those old mini Hunt boats with water ballast chambers that drain through the transom when underway, an obvious attempt to steady what is a quite steeply veed little vessel. Not sure how much difference made, but it would still be more stable underway than at rest, presumably.
     
  6. ian_upton
    Joined: Apr 2006
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    Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan

    ian_upton Junior Member

    This hull originally had the water ballast. At least the outboard versions did.

    This specific hull was an i/o and didn't have the ballast.
     
  7. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    That surprises me, what was the engine size of the i/o ?
     
  8. ian_upton
    Joined: Apr 2006
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    Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan

    ian_upton Junior Member

    Not sure, the engine was out when I got the boat. I know it was a 4 cylinder but not even sure what brand.

    I did get a few more things done this weekend. Starboard stringer tabbed in with 2 layers of 1708, transom ground down on the exterior to glass the old out drive hole and all of the various transom penetrations over the years.

    Unfortunately fall and winter is coming and I might not get as far on the project this year as I had hoped.

    Ian.
     
  9. ian_upton
    Joined: Apr 2006
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    Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan

    ian_upton Junior Member

  10. ian_upton
    Joined: Apr 2006
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    Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan

    ian_upton Junior Member

    It has been some time since I have posted about this project (which is still hanging around...). Here are some updated pictures.

    2 stringers, center short stringer and bulkhead are glassed in:
    [​IMG]

    fuel tank pad is in and painted with epoxy paint:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Hull flipped for a full bottom job with epoxy barrier coat, strake repair and a fill and fair
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Transom cut down for outboard.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Mr Efficiency
    Joined: Oct 2010
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    You appear to be doing a methodical job there. It might be more wobbly than is ideal, at rest. Will cope with chop pretty well, though. That boat looks like the same hull as the V15 (They may have fudged a little on the boat length in those days) "Haines Hunter", and I don't know if they all had the water ballast, but some certainly did. Outboards only.
    29684.jpg
     

  12. ian_upton
    Joined: Apr 2006
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    Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan

    ian_upton Junior Member

    Thanks for the lead on the Haines Hunter V15. Did a bit of reading this morning. There is an Australian Trailer Boat video series on Vimeo about a restoration. Going to have to watch that one and see what I could have / should have done.

    I had a new under floor aluminum fuel tank custom made. Capacity is 26 US gallons. Tank is installed and secured in place.
    [​IMG]

    Sole is fit, with access into the bilge, fuel fill and vent as well as sender.
    [​IMG]

    Outboard of the stringers is foamed with a 2 part 3lb density closed cell foam from US Composites.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Ian.
     
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