Help with scooter boat build

[Aransas Flats Rat]

Hello, I am currently wanting to build a Flats scooter boat. Such as pictures below.

 

[Aransas Flats Rat]

Hello all my Name is Capt. Travis I currently live in Florida and I am wanting to build a Texas style Scooter (basically a platform). I have built three boats from a set of plans and done a total gut and rebuild as well, I am familiar with stitch and glue type builds as well as general repairs.

I would like to build a platform type boat that would enable me to access very shallow water to gig flounder, I’m not so concerned about handling at speed as the boat will mainly be used at an idle or short runs getting from one bank to the other. I have done several searches and have found nothing similar to my needs.

Boat description:
16’
7-8’ wide (floatation/stability)
Shallow draft 5”-10” at rest
Forward rake
Pocket Tunnel
Main power: outboard engine
Second source: 18hp Honda with 3 blade propeller (air motor)

Want boat as light as possible and needs to be nothing fancy but yet functional.

Would like to use stitch and glue glass over ply method if applicable.

Please see pics for reference of desired design.

Thank you in advance for your time, comments as well as input.

 

[Aransas Flats Rat]

The design proposed seems simple and affordable to build I just don’t know how to get started.

I’m thinking 4 4x8 sheets but joined and taped that would make a 16x8 sheet to start.

Sheet thickness is one question? My thoughts are 3/8 or 9mm would be sufficient for the hull bottom and 1/2” for the pocket tunnel.

Thinking side depths would be about 12” aft and tapper down at the curved bow.

 

[Aransas Flats Rat]

Here is what I have as per weight so far,

40-50 hp 2 stroke
190#
Air motor/prop and stand
150#
25 gallon fuel tank
150# full
Three 12 volt deep cycle batteries
204#
mic. wire, lights rigging
150#

Total estimated rigging:
844 lbs.

 

[Aransas Flats Rat]

Just trying to get a starting point as there is no available plans.

Questions:
Bottom section:
1. Is 1/4 marine ply sufficient for the bottom panels with a layer of 1708/Epoxy?

I’ve seen guys subject to oysters and rocks use two layers of 1708 and they claim it’s somewhat bullet proof.

Sides:
1. Is 1/4 sufficient as well for the sides again one layer of 1708?

Thanks

 

[Aransas Flats Rat]

Thoughts on assembly and design.

1. Assemble bottom panels, figure out bow rake
2. Make pattern of stringers from that
3. Cut out trans frames
4. Assemble stringers/frames and build on top of that.

Option 2:

Build two individual hulls and bridge them in the mid/tunnel section. Iwould assume this method would involve a much more complex framing system?


I am still at a loss as I don’t have a degree and I have never designed a boat. I understand I am asking a lot and taking my own risk and except that 100%. This seems like a simple design would just appreciate some help getting there. Thanks

 

[Aransas Flats Rat]

Below is not the boat I’m building as this example is in aluminum, however it is a great example for the layout.

The stand located at the stern is the Air Motor mounting location.
Example:

Other than that there would be a Console and cooler seat.

 

[Aransas Flats Rat]

Bow layout possibilities

 

[Aransas Flats Rat]

I am trying to draw up a couple ideas of shape and deck layout and will post.

 

[TANSL]

It would be useful to have something simple, such as the attached drawing, with the dimensions that you would like. You must also define the weights of people, equipment, engine, etc ... maximum speed required (or engine power), maximum draft allowed, minimum desired freeboard, and any other condition that serves to build the boat you have in mind. Material to be used and work procedure for each one of the elements.

 

[Aransas Flats Rat]

Gotcha and will do. Thank you for the explanation

 

[Aransas Flats Rat]

Tansl,

I have tried over and over to draw something and I have not been successful as it is a hogged mess, so I will explain as best I can your question

Length: 17-18’
Width: 7’6
Draft: 6” would prefer 4”
Freeboard: 8-10” is fine
Speed: 20-30 mph
Three adults max

Gear:
Outboard 50 hp jet drive: 180 lbs.
(if tunnel is not recommended)

Small Center console:
20-30 lbs.
90 quart cooler seat:
20 lbs.
20 gal fuel:
168 lbs.
Air motor and frame:
100 lbs.

Gear and rigging: 500 lbs.

Materials:
Marine plywood composite
Stitch and glue or ply on frame.
Would prefer to use Epoxy as I am very familiar with it.
All parts would be primed with Epoxy and glassed.
Hull flotation filled.

This would be the hull shape I would prefer. Example As shown there is no deck. Just wanted to give you a reference. It was my understanding that this boat had no tunnel and had an outboard jet drive.

 

[Aransas Flats Rat]

Another example for shape.

 

[Aransas Flats Rat]

Ok so I’ll post my thoughts, I’m not an artist I build out of my head lol.

 

[BlueBell]

A few points:

You'll have less draft without the tunnel (more buoyancy, right?)

Stitch and glue doesn't work as well with square builds like yours.

Why bother with an outboard when you've got the air-prop?
Hauling around 200 pounds, plus fuel, is going to increase your draft and fuel consumption.

9+ feet of beam (although it's not clearly shown) is too wide in most countries for road trailering.
Why not square off your hull at 8.5 feet with vertical sides?
It would mean less draft and easier/earlier planing.

Next drawing, include a top, side, and end view all lined up with each other showing all the features and dimensions.

I see you want to floatation fill the hull which begs the question:
Why not just build out of foam and epoxy-fiber over that?

Cheers