17ft Dory Project Need Some Help

[Craig Ballard]

So I brought this dory a few months ago and 2 weeks later it sunk on its mooring so got it lifted out the water and started working on it found loads of splits and little holes down the side that I have been re fibreglassing
The main problem is I cut the floor out today and found loads of big cracks in the keel section of the boat will add pictures below at the moment i can’t get to the bottom to check damage but no water drains out the keel untill I can get it lifted on to blocks cant get photos but I have started grinding and getting the surface ready on the inside to re glass but my main problem is I don’t no if I can fibreglass over the wood that is there to patch the hole ore if I also need to removed that and fix below it any help will be greatly appreciated cheers

 

[Blueknarr]

Welcome to the forum

What an unfortunate turn of events.

I wouldn't repair over the wood. Definitely remove it prior to repairing the cracked glass or flip the hull over and repair from the outside.

If you do try to glass over the wood:

• I don't think you are likely to achieve a sufficiently good bond to the wood and water will wick under the new glass and emerge from its perimeter.
• The wet wood will rot away allowing the water to flow faster.
• The crack in the fiberglass won't be sufficiently rejoined and will continue to grow.

Good luck

 

[Craig Ballard]

Thanks for your reply i did suspect that I would have to remove the wood its going to be a pain to do but I suppose there’s no point doing it unless it’s done properly

It looks like the keel was already split with holes all down it as before I left earlier I got my hand in there and I can pull all the old wood from from the keel out and they tried fixing it buy glassing in the pice of wood over it whenever they done the floor last

 

[Blueknarr]

So you see first hand what an improper repair looks like and its lack of durability.

How much fiberglass repair experience do you have? This is not the easiest place to repair.

Post pics after it has been cleaned out a bit.

 

[Craig Ballard]

Will upload photos next time I can get down to the boat and I have fiberglassed things more times than I can remember but just basic things like cracks ore holes and building lockers and seats

 

[Blueknarr]

Cool
Since you are a new member, I was unsure. Sounds like you don't need a primer on scarfing in fiberglass.

 

[Craig Ballard]

So I cut out the pice of wood today that the previous persons had place and fiberglassed in to fix what i thought was a crack so glad I removed the wood now as this is what I found under it a 3 inch 15 ft long hole down the keel of the boat

So far I have grinded it all back smoothed the edges and roughed up the glass ready to patch from the inside but going to Have to wait untill I can get someone down there to help me flip the boat so I can also fix from the outside

 

[Blueknarr]

OUCH

How thick was the original hull?
How complex is the shape of the missing keel?
Do you have access to a vacuum pump?
How well is hull supported in its true shape?
Can you reach repair without climbing into boat?

I wouldn't roll it over until there is some connection between the two sides. It could split even more.

Usually, I recumend repairing with the same cloth as originally built. This time I recumend using 1708 for initial layers.

 

[Craig Ballard]

The shape of the missing keel
Is not very complex I don’t have acsess to a vacuum pump I will measure the thickness when I’m
Down there next
my plan was to glass from
The inside several layers of 450grm chop strand Matt with lots of resin let it set up then flip the boat over and do the same on the outside then use filler sand smooth and gelcoat then on the inside cut a new piece of wood glass that in and re attach to the frame for the deck as it was before also when finished to add a stainless steel keel rubbing strip to the new glassed in keel do you think this would be a reasonable way to fix

 

[Craig Ballard]

Also the boat is still connected 5 feet at the front and 2 feet at the back with no cracks the hull is still verry solid

 

[Blueknarr]

Some words of caution:

More than one vessel receiving this extensive of a repair came out of the repair shed warped. If it isn't properly supported then working inside can cause a flex that becomes permanent when the resin cures.

That gap is too wide. Unsupported CSM could easily sag out of shape. Tape paperboard treated with mould release to the bottom first.

1708 is a non-woven bi-axial orientated on the 45s. Even fiber will cross the gap, it will build strength quickly. It is also thicker so fewer layers.

SS rub rail seams warranted.

 

[Craig Ballard]

Ok great thanks for your reply I will order some 1708 also would wax paper ore realese wax and cardboard be sufficient to place under the boat with serval small jacks holding it up so the placed fiberglassed inside won’t sag then the same on the top some small jacks pushing a carbord waxed sheet on to the glass to help push out air bubbles and to make it stick to the tapered edge

 

[Craig Ballard]

This repair is much more extensive than anything I have previously encountered but I don’t have the money to get it fixed professional so my only opinion is to do the best I can so I really appreciate all your help

 

[Blueknarr]

What is your chosen resin? Polyester or epoxy?

Jack's to support hull only.

Score and fold paperboard. Align fold with where keel should be. Masking tape should hold it nicely. Only needs to support first layer of glass.

I would rather sand away light paperboard than deal with wax infested epoxy.

 

[Craig Ballard]

Ok thanks for the help and polyester resin I will post pictures next time I get down there of my progress but i don’t get much Time with work atm