17ft Dory Project Need Some Help

Discussion in 'Projects & Proposals' started by Craig Ballard, Apr 25, 2019.

  1. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
    Posts: 575
    Likes: 88, Points: 28
    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Bet dollars against donuts that it was originally polyester. Polyester will do fine. As long as its lamination (unwaxed) not finishing (wax added) resin.

    If you can find 1708 pre-slit into 8 inch wide roles it would be well. Three staggered base layers of 1708 plus enough CSM to make up original thickness. Bi-axial should have a thin layer of CSM between each layer. The "08" means that just the right amount of CSM is included in the bi-axial "weave".

    Filing folders typically are made from the paperboard I would use. There can be small 1/2 inch gaps between sections of "mould" or paper form.

    Don't buy mould release wax just for this project. The consequences of the paperboard form not realicing is negligible. If you have some on hand, good old fashioned furniture wax is good enough. Waxed paper from the kitchen is ok, but will sag and not hold a "V" like the cardboard would.
     
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  2. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
    Posts: 575
    Likes: 88, Points: 28
    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    This is a far more extensive repair than most amateurs would attempt. Be of good cheer. It looks way harder than it is.

    You already surpassed the previous attempt. You sought out and discovered the root of the problem instead of covering over the symptom. The last guy tried to stop the water from being seen after it passed thru the hull. You cut out all the cancer and are stopping the water from penetrating the hull in the first place. Major error avoided

    In your deconstruction, you have cleaned back to an adhesionable substrate. Major error avoided

    If your dory is fully supported, then another major error avoided.

    Getting advice before getting into trouble. Major errors avoided.

    Your pictures show clean tidy work. Continue along the same way and countless errors will be avoided.

    Carry on
     
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  3. Craig Ballard
    Joined: Apr 2019
    Posts: 11
    Likes: 0, Points: 1
    Location: Dorset

    Craig Ballard Junior Member

    So been so busy with work lately ain’t had time to come on here but I’ve got a lot of work done to the boat now and it’s nearly finished new deck going in tomorrow. And I picked up a outboard and controls also a friend has a nice center consol I can use check the photos for the progress I would also like to thank you all for your help with this project
    I got the keel to the best shape I could and the boat is verry strong next test will be putting it in the water and hoping I’ve repair every hole and crack

    8E11BBA1-E5E3-4AC2-8D9A-5D53039276A6.jpeg 316594FF-197A-4116-AC69-ACC27A13D71A.jpeg 680C0DE6-1778-4A1B-A2B6-7C9B91869809.jpeg 0CB16A2E-EED7-434E-8D7C-6640610A63FE.jpeg ABD0BF33-6CD0-432A-AB11-452C5DF0C565.jpeg 8E126C82-5324-4FA3-862B-51366284FC10.jpeg 55F5F110-EE8C-4C89-AA8C-8B031101776B.jpeg 5077A3D7-D8F7-4745-B7ED-2236AA47CF49.jpeg 2C25FD79-1F75-4843-9488-1F9DBBB2506D.jpeg 31585629-C053-4A7A-A6A5-EDC442F6E309.jpeg
     
  4. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
    Posts: 575
    Likes: 88, Points: 28
    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Looks great.
    I was frightened by the grinder showing up in the picture. They can cause no end of extra fairing work.
     

  5. Craig Ballard
    Joined: Apr 2019
    Posts: 11
    Likes: 0, Points: 1
    Location: Dorset

    Craig Ballard Junior Member

    Yeah I used the grinder with a 80grit sanding pad on it to clean the edges of the cracks and a cutting disk to remove any weak glass ore cracked before rebuilding the keel
     
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