Help with scooter boat build

Discussion in 'Projects & Proposals' started by Aransas Flats Rat, Jan 23, 2020.

  1. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    Hello, I am currently wanting to build a Flats scooter boat. Such as pictures below.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
    Posts: 190
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    Hello all my Name is Capt. Travis I currently live in Florida and I am wanting to build a Texas style Scooter (basically a platform). I have built three boats from a set of plans and done a total gut and rebuild as well, I am familiar with stitch and glue type builds as well as general repairs.

    I would like to build a platform type boat that would enable me to access very shallow water to gig flounder, I’m not so concerned about handling at speed as the boat will mainly be used at an idle or short runs getting from one bank to the other. I have done several searches and have found nothing similar to my needs.

    Boat description:
    16’
    7-8’ wide (floatation/stability)
    Shallow draft 5”-10” at rest
    Forward rake
    Pocket Tunnel
    Main power: outboard engine
    Second source: 18hp Honda with 3 blade propeller (air motor)

    Want boat as light as possible and needs to be nothing fancy but yet functional.

    Would like to use stitch and glue glass over ply method if applicable.

    Please see pics for reference of desired design.

    Thank you in advance for your time, comments as well as input.
     
  3. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
    Posts: 190
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    The design proposed seems simple and affordable to build I just don’t know how to get started.

    I’m thinking 4 4x8 sheets but joined and taped that would make a 16x8 sheet to start.

    Sheet thickness is one question? My thoughts are 3/8 or 9mm would be sufficient for the hull bottom and 1/2” for the pocket tunnel.

    Thinking side depths would be about 12” aft and tapper down at the curved bow.
     
  4. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
    Posts: 190
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    Here is what I have as per weight so far,

    40-50 hp 2 stroke
    190#
    Air motor/prop and stand
    150#
    25 gallon fuel tank
    150# full
    Three 12 volt deep cycle batteries
    204#
    mic. wire, lights rigging
    150#

    Total estimated rigging:
    844 lbs.
     
  5. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    Just trying to get a starting point as there is no available plans.

    Questions:
    Bottom section:
    1. Is 1/4 marine ply sufficient for the bottom panels with a layer of 1708/Epoxy?

    I’ve seen guys subject to oysters and rocks use two layers of 1708 and they claim it’s somewhat bullet proof.

    Sides:
    1. Is 1/4 sufficient as well for the sides again one layer of 1708?

    Thanks
     
  6. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
    Posts: 190
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    Thoughts on assembly and design.

    1. Assemble bottom panels, figure out bow rake
    2. Make pattern of stringers from that
    3. Cut out trans frames
    4. Assemble stringers/frames and build on top of that.

    Option 2:

    Build two individual hulls and bridge them in the mid/tunnel section. Iwould assume this method would involve a much more complex framing system?


    I am still at a loss as I don’t have a degree and I have never designed a boat. I understand I am asking a lot and taking my own risk and except that 100%. This seems like a simple design would just appreciate some help getting there. Thanks
     
  7. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    Below is not the boat I’m building as this example is in aluminum, however it is a great example for the layout.
    846FBC2B-EDE6-4BA4-BEC4-BE530C946A6A.jpeg
    The stand located at the stern is the Air Motor mounting location.
    Example:
    0851135E-EC2C-4422-9A4A-D60AECD5D3DC.jpeg
    Other than that there would be a Console and cooler seat.
     
  8. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
    Posts: 190
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    80F72707-FDE6-4A59-91ED-055B58D9FC52.jpeg Bow layout possibilities
     
  9. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    I am trying to draw up a couple ideas of shape and deck layout and will post.
     
  10. TANSL
    Joined: Sep 2011
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    Location: Spain

    TANSL Senior Member

    It would be useful to have something simple, such as the attached drawing, with the dimensions that you would like. You must also define the weights of people, equipment, engine, etc ... maximum speed required (or engine power), maximum draft allowed, minimum desired freeboard, and any other condition that serves to build the boat you have in mind. Material to be used and work procedure for each one of the elements.
    scooter boat.jpg
     
  11. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    Gotcha and will do. Thank you for the explanation
     
  12. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    Tansl,

    I have tried over and over to draw something and I have not been successful as it is a hogged mess, so I will explain as best I can your question

    Length: 17-18’
    Width: 7’6
    Draft: 6” would prefer 4”
    Freeboard: 8-10” is fine
    Speed: 20-30 mph
    Three adults max

    Gear:
    Outboard 50 hp jet drive: 180 lbs.
    (if tunnel is not recommended)

    Small Center console:
    20-30 lbs.
    90 quart cooler seat:
    20 lbs.
    20 gal fuel:
    168 lbs.
    Air motor and frame:
    100 lbs.

    Gear and rigging: 500 lbs.

    Materials:
    Marine plywood composite
    Stitch and glue or ply on frame.
    Would prefer to use Epoxy as I am very familiar with it.
    All parts would be primed with Epoxy and glassed.
    Hull flotation filled.

    1BF5B78B-B76B-44DC-A1CB-A68DD90A33E2.jpeg
    This would be the hull shape I would prefer. Example As shown there is no deck. Just wanted to give you a reference. It was my understanding that this boat had no tunnel and had an outboard jet drive.
     
  13. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    F2CFAD20-2AE2-4847-B34D-E1D6933A8DE3.jpeg Another example for shape.
     
  14. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
    Posts: 190
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    Location: Florida

    Aransas Flats Rat Senior Member

    Ok so I’ll post my thoughts, I’m not an artist I build out of my head lol.
    image.jpg
     

  15. BlueBell
    Joined: May 2017
    Posts: 1,315
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    Location: Victoria BC Canada

    BlueBell Ahhhhh...

    A few points:

    You'll have less draft without the tunnel (more buoyancy, right?)

    Stitch and glue doesn't work as well with square builds like yours.

    Why bother with an outboard when you've got the air-prop?
    Hauling around 200 pounds, plus fuel, is going to increase your draft and fuel consumption.

    9+ feet of beam (although it's not clearly shown) is too wide in most countries for road trailering.
    Why not square off your hull at 8.5 feet with vertical sides?
    It would mean less draft and easier/earlier planing.

    Next drawing, include a top, side, and end view all lined up with each other showing all the features and dimensions.

    I see you want to floatation fill the hull which begs the question:
    Why not just build out of foam and epoxy-fiber over that?

    Cheers
     
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