philSweet
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Here's a useful document to support the design of the pedal drive. Realize that unlike on a bike, the prop isn't attached rigidly to the ground - it slips. So any torque variation produces a pulsing thrust and rpm change. It will feel like pedaling up a steep hill in too high a gear. This is bad for people engine efficiency. Using a prop with low slip and a higher torque coefficient than ideal based on standard selection methods can help here. You are trading off a bit of friction for better legs. Also consider mild egg gears.
https://www.uni-konstanz.de/mmsp/pubsys/publishedFiles/QuDaSa15.pdf
Also be very conscious of stiffness of all drive components. Any windup of shafting or lash in the chain drive is felt as slip at the pedals.
Realize also that people engines make huge peak torque, even if they are only at around one horsepower. I used to compete on the bike, and at 135 pounds, I could leg press 1000 pounds. If I'm making 1 hp at 90 rpm, that's like a 40 hp tractor at full chat at 3600 rpm. I've looked at using small bush-hog transmissions for angle drives. Better is to use a hub gears in the B bracket to get the rpms up immediately, perhaps even gearing back down a little bit at the prop. Six to one is what I came up with for endurance racing, and I don't see why a sprint would be different, just that everything has to be ten times as strong.
Note that Rick W's craft were mostly endurance racers. His 1/4" shaft was marginal even then. You need at least ten times the stiffness modulus in your shaft after accounting for any gearing differences.
One other point - on racing bikes, aerodynamics is crucial, and the bottom brackets are actually too narrow for best effort. Widening the pedal spacing about 2 inches over what is the norm for a racing bike makes for better ergonomics on a pedal boat. Unfortunately, it may create yaw issues unless you train on a swing or turntable.
And there is nothing wrong with simplication, either. At least run the numbers on a two-bladed straight 1:1 direct drive surface piercing prop. Try small helicopter tail rotor extrusions for blades, and clock the blades to the pedal crank for torque matching. Give the shaft some yaw angle for best efficiency (A little bit of paddle wheel effect). Varying the yaw angle slightly is one way to vary the gearing a little bit, say to account for wind.
https://www.uni-konstanz.de/mmsp/pubsys/publishedFiles/QuDaSa15.pdf
Also be very conscious of stiffness of all drive components. Any windup of shafting or lash in the chain drive is felt as slip at the pedals.
Realize also that people engines make huge peak torque, even if they are only at around one horsepower. I used to compete on the bike, and at 135 pounds, I could leg press 1000 pounds. If I'm making 1 hp at 90 rpm, that's like a 40 hp tractor at full chat at 3600 rpm. I've looked at using small bush-hog transmissions for angle drives. Better is to use a hub gears in the B bracket to get the rpms up immediately, perhaps even gearing back down a little bit at the prop. Six to one is what I came up with for endurance racing, and I don't see why a sprint would be different, just that everything has to be ten times as strong.
Note that Rick W's craft were mostly endurance racers. His 1/4" shaft was marginal even then. You need at least ten times the stiffness modulus in your shaft after accounting for any gearing differences.
One other point - on racing bikes, aerodynamics is crucial, and the bottom brackets are actually too narrow for best effort. Widening the pedal spacing about 2 inches over what is the norm for a racing bike makes for better ergonomics on a pedal boat. Unfortunately, it may create yaw issues unless you train on a swing or turntable.
And there is nothing wrong with simplication, either. At least run the numbers on a two-bladed straight 1:1 direct drive surface piercing prop. Try small helicopter tail rotor extrusions for blades, and clock the blades to the pedal crank for torque matching. Give the shaft some yaw angle for best efficiency (A little bit of paddle wheel effect). Varying the yaw angle slightly is one way to vary the gearing a little bit, say to account for wind.