groper
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2011
- Posts
- 2,507
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- Location
- australia
Well im using the fishbone pattern for a few reasons... it also could have been done sequentially with 3 parralell lines and pulled sideways to each edge - so open the middle line, then the next 2 when the front reaches them...
I choose NOT to use the sequential method because i prefer to mix the entire amount of resin upfront. I prefer to mix it all like this, as i can let the weighed resin (uncatalysed) sit for a long time to let the air bubbles rise up before adding the hardener. If you use the seqential method, a large amount of resin is in the bucket for a long time before the second 2 lines are opened and things start to move quickly again, and ive had an episode where the resin started to kick off whilst i was waiting to open the second 2 lines on a different job a while back. The fishbone pattern empties the bulk of the resin quite quickly and so this isnt a problem. I dont like adding more resin to the bucket mid infusion, as again this airates the resin in the process of pouring it into the feed bucket.
I stop the flow media 2 inches from all panel edges, this allow the underside to catch upto the topside (the lag) and also allows the fishbone resin front to even itself out when it reaches the panel edge.
The core thickness in this boats bridgedeck is 20mm, however this thickness is determined by the stiffener locations and thus the unsupported panel length and width between stiffeners. This will vary for every different kind of boat. It really is a stiffness issue, not a strength issue. Im running 1 longitudinal stiffener down the guts over the top of the join between bridgedeck halves. Also the furniture locations in the cabin reduce the unsupported spans aswell, then there is the beams running athwarthships in 4 locations aswell, so the floor shouldnt be springy at all in most places. There is one area on the back deck where the panel spans 1.3m. I may need to add another stringer if it feels springy there, ill wait and see how it goes. Simple to bond them on afterwards.
The resin inlet connections i use are the Airtech RIC`s... these do not make any appreciable indent in the laminate. The resin lines however, do leave a thick resin rich hump on the panel. I grind these down afterwards.
This is what the panel looks like after infusion and then straight to paint, will lift it into place tomorro - gotta wait for the damn paint to cure
Note the recessed edges for tape joins, and also the imprint of the packing tape i used to help vacuum seal the table between sheets of melamine. These fair out with one extra strip of high build paint where the imprint is. The core is a mixture of divinycell (grey) and airex (green) -using up offcuts thus the different colors you can see...
I choose NOT to use the sequential method because i prefer to mix the entire amount of resin upfront. I prefer to mix it all like this, as i can let the weighed resin (uncatalysed) sit for a long time to let the air bubbles rise up before adding the hardener. If you use the seqential method, a large amount of resin is in the bucket for a long time before the second 2 lines are opened and things start to move quickly again, and ive had an episode where the resin started to kick off whilst i was waiting to open the second 2 lines on a different job a while back. The fishbone pattern empties the bulk of the resin quite quickly and so this isnt a problem. I dont like adding more resin to the bucket mid infusion, as again this airates the resin in the process of pouring it into the feed bucket.
I stop the flow media 2 inches from all panel edges, this allow the underside to catch upto the topside (the lag) and also allows the fishbone resin front to even itself out when it reaches the panel edge.
The core thickness in this boats bridgedeck is 20mm, however this thickness is determined by the stiffener locations and thus the unsupported panel length and width between stiffeners. This will vary for every different kind of boat. It really is a stiffness issue, not a strength issue. Im running 1 longitudinal stiffener down the guts over the top of the join between bridgedeck halves. Also the furniture locations in the cabin reduce the unsupported spans aswell, then there is the beams running athwarthships in 4 locations aswell, so the floor shouldnt be springy at all in most places. There is one area on the back deck where the panel spans 1.3m. I may need to add another stringer if it feels springy there, ill wait and see how it goes. Simple to bond them on afterwards.
The resin inlet connections i use are the Airtech RIC`s... these do not make any appreciable indent in the laminate. The resin lines however, do leave a thick resin rich hump on the panel. I grind these down afterwards.
This is what the panel looks like after infusion and then straight to paint, will lift it into place tomorro - gotta wait for the damn paint to cure
Note the recessed edges for tape joins, and also the imprint of the packing tape i used to help vacuum seal the table between sheets of melamine. These fair out with one extra strip of high build paint where the imprint is. The core is a mixture of divinycell (grey) and airex (green) -using up offcuts thus the different colors you can see...
