Hi sharpii2, I too have thought about a new class, much smaller than yours, to race home built versions of the Elusion and similar overpriced single handed micro yachts, inshore only, all abilities. While possibly irrelevant, I'll post my thoughts on rules and regulations I came up with for the class. I gave up on the idea myself, but if someone wanted to take it up, they're welcome to. It was all about development, and cheap fun. I am a novice, not a class rules lawyer, so it is crude and clunky, but may give you something else to consider in your proposed class definition or rules.
The DOOR 750
So named because it will fit through a standard household door frame wider than 750 m
One or two person racing sail boat. Beam maximum 750 mm
A developmental class with few restrictions, and simple rules, so as to make inexpensive but safe sailable models of variable design, and have fun. Fit two DOORS on a trailer, side by side.
The boat can be built indoors, in a normal house with a standard door frame exit, in most cases; unless you are married or have a landlord.
Built strong enough to withstand at least 1m swell + 1 m seas + 30 Kn wind, and self righting in knockdowns in those conditions.
Hull shape and design is to be made public if the hull places in the top 5 finishes in any recognised race.
Dimensions
Length Over All is 6 m maximum
Generally as long a hull as you can get from 2 sheets of pywood end on end, scarfed or butted, plus some leftovers.
Prefer 5 m to 4 m long, since not many people have huge spare rooms, but unwieldy extravagance is ok if it's strong enough.
It can be long and sharp, or a more manageable practical length.
It can be a low and sleek, high aspect design, or it can be high sided with a cabin and flybridge, if you can work it.
Hull
Very simple shapes without torturing the plywood into compound curves.
Slab sides, and bottom, made of any plywood like, flat, flexible, similar behaving material.
Flat bottomed abeam front to back, with rocker and bottom contours fore and aft, made from 1 + 1 sheets of plywood end on end, with almost no bottom V angle, or slightly curved from flat, but warped un-cut plywood.
Sides with small angle to vertical, outward, or tumblehome, hard single chine < r 50 mm.
Sealed buoyancy tanks must be able to support a water filled yacht in an upright attitude, still with 8 inches of freeboard, to allow effective bailing out of water in rough conditions.
Steel centreboards can rotate to lift; or fixed shoal draft keels; or twin keels, may be used, all for easy trailering and storage, and fun in shallow waters. No 'deep keels'.
Any shape of monohull which can be produced from flat bendable panels.
Brackets for motors are allowed, and internal outboard motor wells.
A thick bottom thickness to take groundings at speed, and give stiffness (say 8 mm min); minimum 5mm thick ply or substitute of equal strength, everywhere else.
Mass
There will be a minimum weight eventually, based on the weight of an average plywood and metal build; but any materials can be used anywhere, if it is safe and durable.
Heavy ballast may be used, in any manner, within the rules, as long as still buoyant when swamped.
Water ballast may be used, but no side ballast tank pumping allowed. Keeping it simple.
Rig
Any that you have on hand, whichever works, is versatile and reliable, and copes with more than 30 Kn wind and knockdowns.
Whatever you have from other yachts that you can use, or adapt, or weave a crabclaw, or invent something - no shape is specified.
Un-stayed, or stays, or other, no mast restrictions, to support any design of fabric sails.
Only fabric type sails allowed, no metals, wings, rotors, or other contrivances.
Try to make it look a bit like some sort of big yacht, from a distance.
Rowable, or able to be paddled effectively and usefully for safety, like a canoe.
Simple light weight stitch and glue, or framed construction; framing in any material.
Cockpits can be placed anywhere, and two people are allowed, one behind the other, kayak style, or side by side if extremely emaciated. Gimballed seating is allowed, to sit upright.
Steering can be via foot pedals or wheel or levers or tiller, to inboard or stern mounted rudders.
Motors must be removed or stowed if / when racing; batteries can remain in place.
Or (My favourite) a Door 750 on wheels, to hand launch when I'm old and can't drive cars anymore.
ROLLER DOOR 750
Twin keels with steel, or water filled wheels, so it can be manoevred on land by hand.
Thinking weighted plane landing wheels, tough, broad, smooth, possibly roll on sand.
Steel frame holds keels, internal legs, and axles; sets chine width; can extend keels fore and aft.
Slab sides - 2 deg more angle than eg. a Heron
freeboard 1 - 2 inch more than eg. a Heron
long raked bow or square.
My idea didn't get much attention, and I didn't think too hard about it, but I thought restricting materials to hardware store marine ply and polyester resin, and flat panels with limited compound curves, would keep a 'level playing field' as far as folks with an unlimited budget goes. Reminding me of the 'hardware store sail boat' thread somewhere here.
Good luck with your class, a fleet of affordable pocket global racers that can also possibly be cruisers, sounds great. Maybe even small enough to trailer.
I like your general idea.
But I see problems with a Beam of less than 3 ft (0.91 m). When considering the sitting ht of the typical adult, this could create significant initial stability issues. These issues would have to be solved by:
1.) a good amount of dense internal ballast (lead blocks), or
2.) external ballast.
With no draft limit, the faster boats are going to end up with deep, bulbed keels. Not limiting the sail area will also push the class in this direction.
Being able to get the hull out through a typical house door would be meaninless if the empty boat weighs several hundred pounds, and was so tall that it would be difficult to carry. This is the reason why, in my proposed class, I limited the draft. Limiting the ballast specific gravity would be a further improvement in this direction. Suppose you limited the draft to say 2/3 the Beam, or 500 mm. The boat would still be heavy, but two or three strong men would be able to carry it out of a house. If the specitfic gravity of the external ballast were limited to say 3.0, this would put a real limit on keel design. Bulbs would not be practical, and greater ballast to displacement ratios would also mean greater whetted area. To have a monster rig would mean having a very long, monstr keel. Swing keels and drop keels would be pretty much ruled out too. I think it is also a good idea to keep the builders out of the lead smelting business. Such a limitaion would make a grp incased concrete keel a practical option.
I think your length limit is far too generous. In this set of restrictions, longer boats would have the overwhelming advantage. I think 5 m is a far more realistic limit. Then the boat could be built in a typical garage (and stored there too). It could also be built inside a house, if it had a removable bow or stern section. But you better believe that whatever length limit you choose will be the length of the competitive boats in the class.
You will also need a rule against hiking out to keep this from becoming a athletic competition. Such a prohibition would definitely limit the sail area and perhaps the rig ht as well (as much as the external ballast specific gravity would) and may also help make sail types and rigs, that typically aren't seen as racing ones, competitive.
To keep the competition reasonably fair, I think you will need a minimum boat + crew mass limit of no less than say 400 kg (about 200 kg for the boat and about 200 kg for the crew). Short falls of this minimum can be made up with inside water ballast. This way, two crew and one crew boats could compete with one another. A sail area of around 11 sm would move a boat of this mass nicely.
Part of my initial intent was to create a class where the boats would be:
1.) less extreme in ability to sail competitively and less extreme in cost to to be competitive,
2.) useful for activities other than racing, and
3.) keep the "thous" and "thou shalt nots" down to a minimum by mandating strategic design limits.
Your limiting the Beam is an excellent example of one.
As much as I like the idea of a roller version one, I don't think it would be something you would be able to handle in old age. If you increased the Beam to say 1,000 mm, it may no longer need ballast and could therfore be lighter. Making wheels wide enough to roll on sand may not be practical. I think it would be far more entertaining to have the wheels double as twin keels. They would then work on just about any kind of pavement, such as a boat ramp.
You could still stipulate that the hull should be able to fit through a typical house doorway, but it would have to be on its side.
I am working on rules for a class of 0.91 m Beam scow skiffs that can be of different lengths, displacements, and sail areas, but can still race as equals. I am doing this mainly as an intellectual challenge.