Wierd Electrical issue Please Help!

The current overload went thru all five breakers simultaneously not sequentially.
 
So, do you know if all the breakers were tripped?

Check to see if any of them are continuous across the breakers themselves in the off or open positions.

If one of them is stuck closed; it may explain things..
 
Still scractching my head as to why the Nav lights and bilge did get fried when everything else did
 
so power comes in at the horn switch, and fried that breaker then fries a 15 amp breaker and fries a couple of 4 amp and 3 amp and 5 amp breaker but the nav lights 5 amp and the bilge 4 amp are left untouched, doesn't make since.Here is the breaker array I got from Nauticstar starting at the horn switch where power come is 5 amp, 15 amp, 4 amp, 4 amp then to the top of the panel the next two are OK but power has to flow through them, 5 amp/OK, 4 amp/OK, 3 amp then the last is a 5 amp all but the ones i list as ok are fried, but power comes into the horn swicth runs accross the bottom of the panel then up to the top through the two that are OK then to the 3 amp and 5 amp. so how did it fry stuff with bigger breakers and pass through the two that didn't fry. I'm not an electrical expert but that just doesn't jive with me.
 
so power comes in at the horn switch, and fried that breaker then fries a 15 amp breaker and fries a couple of 4 amp and 3 amp and 5 amp breaker but the nav lights 5 amp and the bilge 4 amp are left untouched, doesn't make since.Here is the breaker array I got from Nauticstar starting at the horn switch where power come is 5 amp, 15 amp, 4 amp, 4 amp then to the top of the panel the next two are OK but power has to flow through them, 5 amp/OK, 4 amp/OK, 3 amp then the last is a 5 amp all but the ones i list as ok are fried, but power comes into the horn swicth runs accross the bottom of the panel then up to the top through the two that are OK then to the 3 amp and 5 amp. so how did it fry stuff with bigger breakers and pass through the two that didn't fry. I'm not an electrical expert but that just doesn't jive with me.
Did you check them like I advised?

If you have a failed breaker failed shut, or a switch failed; it may explain something.

You also never mentioned the in line fuse...what size and status ..

You need to look for any anomaly because if you replace them and fry them again; then it'll be on you..
 
All switches work, breakers read open except one which works so long as you push real hard on the reset button but goes to open as soon as you release it, none of the breaker show tripped button out. they all read open left to right and right to left. Been working on tracing the grounds they all seem to be fine but i did lossen clean them and retighten but they did look bad to begin with. I really have come to the conclusion the two days of rain had something to do with it but it;s only an assumption.
 
Nearby lightening strike. That's all I can think of. You're falling into a trap I often found myself in. Overthinking. Replace the breakers. Be thankful that you didn't lose your electronics.
 
Ditch the breakers and install fuses. Even if temporary until your season ends. Circuit breakers are mass produced junk. Especially if made overseas. I work in the commercial/industrial electrical industry. All projects require third party testing and adjustments in accordance with a “short circuit study” on breakers 100 amps and larger.

Typical project will see four or more failures, manufacturers only QC test 1 out of 10000 breakers at time of production based on lot size. One time we had a 120 volt 20 amp breaker feeding a UV light assembly in an airhandler. It was missed in the submittal process the manufacturer required a 30 amp breaker. The 20 amp breaker held 22 amps for weeks until it was detected with an infrared scan of the panel. Should have tripped at 16 amps.
 
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