The strips for Emily Rose can be done two ways; one is an all strip layup with an external sheathing, while the other is a thinner strip layup with a molded veneer on the exterior. Each has it's advantages and disadvantages, but the larger strip method is faster and requires less fitting.
The larger strip method has approximately 48 strips (per side), from keel to sheer and these are edge set 1x2's of SYP or Douglas fir. Actually the SYP is slightly smaller in thickness (about 5/8"). They are laid over station molds on about 24" centers and edge glued. They can be cove and bead if desired, but I've found this is more trouble than it's worth, except in the after quarters, where the bilge makes a pretty hard turn. The cove and bead does help align the strips in this location. Once the strips are laid, the seam gaps (there will be some) are filled and the hull faired, smoothed, then sheathed for abrasion protection. The plans also include sheathing the bilge internally, to just above the soles, if only to seal in the planking with a durable skin. Once the hull shell is laid up, the hull is righted and the molds pulled out as the bulkhead and furniture partitions tabbed to the shell.
After the bulkheads and partitions are tabbed in, the soles and decks go on and the deckhouse(s) can be installed. It's basic strip plank technique and you can use a pretty low grade of lumber for the strips. My recommendation is to buy 2x10's and 2x12's from the local big box store, sorting through each stack to get the straight grain ones. These can be shoved through a table saw and the edge cut off at 3/4" making 1x2's cheaply and also orienting the grain to quarter or vertical stock. This allows you to buy just a few 16' boards and get all of your 1x2 planking stock very inexpensively. Because you've used 16' 2x12's, the tree they came from has to be fairly old and dense as a result, producing good stock for the 1x2's.
I don't remember any Brig sketches, though they may be something I've done, but just don't remember. Since I can't remember, it must have just been a quick sketch, as I remember all the finished work. There are several "tricks" you'll need to do to get a reasonable square rig to work. Aside the obvious sail handling stuff, the hull will need some power and good initial stability. This coupled with a light weight build, so the ballast ratio can be respectable will go a long way to making a boat like this viable.
Your sketch shows a keel with some drag and the ballast centrally located, with some overhangs too. I'd spread out the ballast along the deadwood, remove the keel drag with a dead straight keel bottom and move the ends out a bit to reduce the overhangs. I'd also divide the appendages, with a centrally located (long) fin and skeg hung rudder, located at the very aft end of the LWL. Simply put, lateral forward of say station 3 and aft of station 7 really isn't helping much, just making more wetted surface and drag. The rudder will work better and be much more responsive is skeg hug, well aft of the fin. The spread out ballast will make the boat more comfortable and much more forgiving to trim imbalances. I'd also consider a gaff fore, instead of the staysail, as you'll be under fore and aft most of the time, so you'll want to fill the area between the mast as best as you can. Topsails and a fisherman can help in light air. The courses will be for parades and occasions you just want to show off really. These can be setup on roller furlers down the center of the sail and rolled up for tacking or upwind work. The tape rollers are setup with some slack to let the course billow a bit and naturally, the sail maker will need to know what's going on, so they can do a reasonable job of it.
, she'll give you a much better sailboat + the kids will have plenty of strings to pull + there are 
