rob denney
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- Feb 13, 2005
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Glad you like them.Hi, I am new here, have read nearly this entire thread.. I have been studying Proas and esp. HPs a while ago...I do like the spacy ufo looks of the Denny HPs.
No. Kicking up, the rudder blades, the rudder mounts and the steering all work in both directions.Now i am once again looking for a world cruiser.. was delayed by C19 and other unforeseens...
I have put aside my reservation about bad resale value.. cause if I go for an HP .. i will keep it!
Now I have to figure out how it works for me.
Ive gone thru this looong thread and come to the conclusion that I like 90% of HPs characteristics ... but dont quite get my head around 2 points.
1. the rudder/leeboard issue.
A_ it can be raised in a steerable box and swiveled(kickup) away from bridgedeck. So impact safety only for one direction when sailing upwind with both down?
See Hydrofoils http://www.basiliscus.com/ProaSections/ProaIndex.html for the blade section shapes and performance.
Correct. The case is oversized so the top of the blades can rake/rotate forward to keep the steering axis ahead of the centre of pressure. This rotation is automatic and operated by the boom or main sheet when the boat shunts.Further if both can be used for steering they must have their rot. axis central which at speed may leed to flutter if not (as I read somewhere) they tilt back , rearwards of motion thru water? which would make them stable ...
It is not a problem. If both blades are used, you steer until the boat is on the new course. It does not matter which rudder is doing the work.My Q: how do you control the steering input as the front blade will exert more steering force on hull than the rear? needing less input. When on the other tack (dir.) this balance must be inverted.
This can be done with 2 wheels or tillers. It is more complicated to build the wheels, but not hard to do.Or is one forced to steer both rudders independent with different input?
The same as on a conventional boat, except for the tack/gybe function.How would an autopilot cope?
Could do, but it is more cost, weight and complexity.Maybe using hydraulic sys. with valveswitch for fwd/aft?
This is a cool approach. Maybe mount the motors on sleeves on the rudders so they can be lifted up clear of the water when not in use.2. where on a proa would you fit the 2 drives? I would go for serial hybrid in a proa with lots of PV on a large bimini.. maybe 15m²/ 3kW? assuming a 18m to 20m HP plus small 25_35kW rangextender (rotax/bombardier 35 to 55kg.) Powering 5 to 10kW pod motor on each rudder, one facing eithr way.. best with a symetrical bladeprofile, can also generate power and shld give app 8kt, or 1 to 2 azimuth drives motor in boat or pod. Regen option.
The current method is to lower the stern of the tender and use it's outboard. For boats where this is inadequate for maneuvering, a second, possibly smaller, probably electric motor can be deployed through the toybox. If this is on a rotating mount, it can be steered to push the boat in any direction. It would be lifted clear of the water when sailing but could be used for regen if it had a kick up fuse in case of a collision with a floating object.
Other options include:
Mounting the motors on tilting arms on the side of the hull(s), or the rudder sleeves so that they can be lifted clear of the water.
Placing them in boxes in the hulls so they can be lifted when not in use. The bottom of the drive unit has a plate on it to seal the hole.
You are not kidding. We have been refining it for 20+ years and there is probably further work to do.I believe the rudder/leeward blade issue with differential steering , kickup /rake poss., lift up, is a complex issue.
Shunting a well set up proa is simple, anyone who can tell where the wind is coming from should have no problem. It is far easier to teach a novice to shunt than to tack. Most sailors are simply surprised at how simple it is.If the trimming of both blades is done manually by helmsman.. he needs to know what hes doing or wont get best performance windward.... cant let a novice shunt?
I think this refers to Rick Willoughby's posts on the harryproa chat group? Optimising the windward performance with blade immersed area and angle is a fun challenge, but the boats will sail well upwind without it.There was the Q posed how to get best windward without too much drag, and if 2 or 1 ½ rudder immersed or 1 only...blade drag , as remarked, will be very much less (high aspect ratio) than hulldrag if latter shld create ww lift.
It will, but it is difficult to get a precise reading. A better approach is to attach one end of a rope to the middle of the deck, high enough so that when the rope is in the water, it just clears the beam. Make a mark where the rope crosses the beam to indicate leeway angle, then play with the rudders and rigs until it is minimised. This provides hours of entertainment for those who like tweeking. ;-)I believe that it will show in the wake's angle to boat heading?
I find it is easiest to lock the aft rudder and steer with the front one, but have done the reverse, and steered with both, either together to speed up turns or in opposition to move the boat sideways.This Q to those of you with Proa experience:
> how do you best deal with steering the boat when beating upwind?
Any other questions, please ask.

