Hi, I have recently got into sailing and ever since I started learning more about this awesome pass-time I have wanted to build my own boat. I also want to start making some bigger passages in the near future, my current boat however, (17' daysailer) is not suitable for blue water conditions. Being a student I am very strapped for cash. So I came up with the idea of a project trying to design and produce the cheapest viable boat that is capable of extended blue water cruising. Main constraints are that it has to be SAFE, FUNCTIONAL and CHEAP as possible. I thought that if a quality design could be achieved it could pave the way to providing an accessible route into cruising for those on meagre budgets. This will not be a racing yacht, performance will be catered for where possible but safety and function take precedence. This a boat for adventurers not making a floating home.
Now given these constraints, it has to be made clear what the sacrifices are going to be; this will be a functional boat (bare bones would be an apt term) - comfort, although allowed for in design where it does not affect price or function. Also not only is the boat designed to be cheap to produce but also cheap to maintain, a emphasis on easy access to tanks/deck fittings etc and using the simplest hardware for rigging and fittings.
Basically I have some ideas already on key design points, so if anyone would be so kind as to give feedback and/or suggest features that you think should be included/altered we can hopefully narrow the design toward an optimum. Please be aware I am not a seasoned sailor or boat builder so there are likely to be many oversights on my part but I look forward to you helping me learn!
HULL/KEEL Shape
Hardest point for me, I currently am in the camp of full or almost full keel w/skeg rudder for sturdy heavy weather handling (also better hove-to) and hull strength and a full keel is often shallower than a fin/ballast keel. As far as size goes I am thinking 25ft is the most cost effective size. Performance is better when bigger but smaller is cheaper and in my mind stronger.
HULL Material - hard chine steel plate construction
Stronger than GRP and more easily built at home (provided welding experience). Easily repaired in many places around the world. Does carry problems associated with corrosion but research tells me that properly prepared this is not an issue with simple maintenance.
SAIL RIG - single junk rig
This may be controversial, but from what I've seen, a junk rig is perfect for what i have specified - it can be unstayed (cheap/easy to maintain), it is extr. easy to reef (functional/safe), the whole rig is under much less stress (therefore less stress on hull/sailcloth/sheeting lines). This reduces the need for winches and expensive sailcloth. Junks are very good off the wind and for up-wind work cambered panel sails could be trialled if flat sails were actually that unsatisfactory (tests have shown they work remarkably well) Junk rigs also have a lower COE so will heel the boat less and be able to carry alot of sail area. Aluminium mast and spars would be used to reduce weight aloft.
DECK
All lines will be lead to an enclosed cockpit area with raised windows through the companionway so can be sailed through a storm without risking deck work. Boat will be tiller steered for simplicity and wind vane built into design as standard. Heavy inspiration drawn from the boat MingMing II for this section.
Ill leave it there as enough points have been raised for debate without getting too intricate and talking about more. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Now given these constraints, it has to be made clear what the sacrifices are going to be; this will be a functional boat (bare bones would be an apt term) - comfort, although allowed for in design where it does not affect price or function. Also not only is the boat designed to be cheap to produce but also cheap to maintain, a emphasis on easy access to tanks/deck fittings etc and using the simplest hardware for rigging and fittings.
Basically I have some ideas already on key design points, so if anyone would be so kind as to give feedback and/or suggest features that you think should be included/altered we can hopefully narrow the design toward an optimum. Please be aware I am not a seasoned sailor or boat builder so there are likely to be many oversights on my part but I look forward to you helping me learn!
HULL/KEEL Shape
Hardest point for me, I currently am in the camp of full or almost full keel w/skeg rudder for sturdy heavy weather handling (also better hove-to) and hull strength and a full keel is often shallower than a fin/ballast keel. As far as size goes I am thinking 25ft is the most cost effective size. Performance is better when bigger but smaller is cheaper and in my mind stronger.
HULL Material - hard chine steel plate construction
Stronger than GRP and more easily built at home (provided welding experience). Easily repaired in many places around the world. Does carry problems associated with corrosion but research tells me that properly prepared this is not an issue with simple maintenance.
SAIL RIG - single junk rig
This may be controversial, but from what I've seen, a junk rig is perfect for what i have specified - it can be unstayed (cheap/easy to maintain), it is extr. easy to reef (functional/safe), the whole rig is under much less stress (therefore less stress on hull/sailcloth/sheeting lines). This reduces the need for winches and expensive sailcloth. Junks are very good off the wind and for up-wind work cambered panel sails could be trialled if flat sails were actually that unsatisfactory (tests have shown they work remarkably well) Junk rigs also have a lower COE so will heel the boat less and be able to carry alot of sail area. Aluminium mast and spars would be used to reduce weight aloft.
DECK
All lines will be lead to an enclosed cockpit area with raised windows through the companionway so can be sailed through a storm without risking deck work. Boat will be tiller steered for simplicity and wind vane built into design as standard. Heavy inspiration drawn from the boat MingMing II for this section.
Ill leave it there as enough points have been raised for debate without getting too intricate and talking about more. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
