Affordable seaworthy cruiser

I said it pretty clearly here:

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/boat-design/affordable-seaworthy-cruiser-33980-60.html#post580426

 

goodwilltoall, how did you deal with the chine log issue?

 

Greetings,

Will make comments later about new drawings.

Frank: The chine log is still missing. Had a chance to put it in ( and still do as there will be another layer of plywood) and wouldnt be that difficult to do. Will get all kinds of boo's for proceeding especially since it was a renowned naval designer advising (Tad probably ranks as one of my top three favorite designers still alive). I screwed the wood for the log along the chine and began looking at it of what type of work i was in for but, as I contemplated it seems as if it would be doing the same thing as what i have there since the first layer is all longs for both sides and bottom. Chine logs are necessary and easily understandable why with typical panel construction, this is more of a stripplanking build where the hull is mono. Not trying to be bullheaded just need more convincing.

The chine will form a type of beam by the 90 degree joint anyways and i will also join more area of the longs farther away from the intersecting joint through heavy blocking. Look in the gallery for the recent uploads of Casario/Tabuado by Yuriw, they seem to be doing the same thing without a chine log. As I said there is time to still add a log and will throw up the wood for it along the the hull again

 

Before leaving I want to give credit to Tanton and his "Sea Eel" design who was inspired by Bolger with AS39 as my inspiration for Bogomil.

Peace.

 

One thing i love about this forum is that people take time and help out when they do not need too.
When people give you opinion for no reason but to share their knowledge and experience it warrants respect and appreciation.
They are not obliged to do so they do it out of good will and respect for people they do not know ..

Choosing to disregard that is not wise at all ....

 

Goodwilltoall, I get what you are saying, but i think the chine log serves as more protection in a vulnerable part of the hull as well as all the other purposes it serves.
Frank

 

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/boat-design/design-spiral-where-start-building-boat-28580.html

The design spiral by Apex .... a good read for any one considering designing a boat himself ....

 

Never disregarded Tad's advice since he is probably the most knowledgeable member on the forum, thought long and hard about about what he said and how the type of constuction used will react to different stresses imposed. Still possible to add chine logs but at this time it is beyond my desire to add them since I believe it will work fine without them although it would be stronger with them. Knowledge from other endeavors that this belief is based upon, so will say its ok only when its had extensive time on the water and it remains intact, wouldnt be continuing otherwise.

 

Update to Tyndale goodwilltoall;663093 Greetings, Nothing new, tried to just overlay updated Tyndale trawler but system started a new post.

Will make comments later about new drawings.

Frank: The chine log is still missing. Had a chance to put it in ( and still do as there will be another layer of plywood) and wouldnt be that difficult to do. Will get all kinds of boo's for proceeding especially since it was a renowned naval designer advising (Tad probably ranks as one of my top three favorite designers still alive). I screwed the wood for the log along the chine and began looking at it of what type of work i was in for but, as I contemplated it seems as if it would be doing the same thing as what i have there since the first layer is all longs for both sides and bottom. Chine logs are necessary and easily understandable why with typical panel construction, this is more of a stripplanking build where the hull is mono. Not trying to be bullheaded just need more convincing. Update to Tyndale Trawler.

The chine will form a type of beam by the 90 degree joint anyways and i will also join more area of the longs farther away from the intersecting joint through heavy blocking. Look in the gallery for the recent uploads of Casario/Tabuado by Yuriw, they seem to be doing the same thing without a chine log. As I said there is time to still add a log and will throw up the wood for it along the the hull again

 

Diesel Duck

This has been an interesting project. It began with the idea to build a modern vessel, while using the original dimentions of the Ark.

Now it's looking almost like one of George's "Diesel Ducks," but without a separate engine room.

 

to gwt

The new sketch, Tyndale. It is a lot lot shorter than your 50ft craft, and the bow is much blunter, I would humbly suggest that the boat is at risk of pounding in any sea. A vee bottom is the typical way of dealing with this issue.

Aside, in the 50ft hull, where is the ballast located, is it concrete/steel/lead. If someone could refresh my memory I would appreciate it, having not looked at this thread in 6 months. By the way, plywood over the planking was good, it smooths the hull and provides additional strength. Yes a chine log would have been good (as suggested by many!). I think you will find that adding a chine log after the event is much harder than having it to begin with.

 

Greetings,

Yes, I tried to sneak in that design as its just easier to post here. Did try to rectify some of the those issues you mention by making it very heavy to slow down the motion, solid wood blocking between the frames to lessen pounding noise, and adding the full keel to reduce rolling and break up full wave impact. For now its a shanty trawler that might work on semi protected waters. If it was built longer the bow would be pointer, the transom would rise above the wl and it would be a completely different boat.

 

BTW, visited triloboats blog and went to the relaxshacks.com link. "The 227 House" is what i consider excellent utilitarian design that can work in boats with the same type of thinking.

 

Peter, Still have to reattach wood for chine log and contemplate again. Cement/iron ballast would go right into keel fwd of engine room. Thought that last drawing of 50 footer would be last since the bulkheads are already built but several things bothered me.
1. Missing enclosure/protection at helm.
2. Going outside of main cabin to access head.
3. Lacking a center mounted dry exhaust.
4. Fwd berths.
So started googling again and came up with a different layout that will work but have to cut out bulkheads, it would be very similar to the design at post #822 obviously without vee bottom (btw, with most designs posted I try to improve and correct and that one in particular I added 25 degree bilge keels 1.) to lay upright, 2.) more importantly to reduce rolling, and 3.) keep same draft).

 

Actually I thought all along this build is like George Buehlers Pilgrim