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Stringers and the main knee brace installed, I still plan on making 2 additional knee braces connecting from each stringer to the transom, as well as angled aluminum on the sides of the hull at the transom that will be riveted to the hull and bolted through the transom for extra beef. Not sure...

I’ve been working away at fabricating pieces and temporarily adding them with Cleco fasteners to ensure my measurements align with the actual fit. I have yet to fabricate the rear bracing, nothing crazy, just an angled piece across the front of my splashwell, an angled piece about 12” fore of...

thank you! I’ve got the stringers here after I initially removed them and those braces along the sides connecting the floor and sides. Also the braces running across at the bow. I’m going to add additional braces for a rear deck so I can have hatches as well as a bow casting deck so to say that...

I've also got all the internals such as stringers and multiple other structural pieces. They were all removed so i could get the old pour in foam out. I understand my pictures are lacking lots but the boat simply doesnt have them installed at the moment.

Are you able to send me a picture of the stiffeners youre referring to? I understand 15 gallons may be low, with my current 16' fibreglass having a 100hp 2 stroke ive got two 6 gallon tanks, it works well for me fishing as i usually dont need to venture too far from the ramp, I plan on looking...

Thank you to the helpful and not to helpful replies, yes the transom has a 1-1/2” wooden core. The aluminum has no motor mount holes drilled through it as the previous transom had multiple little holes through it. I epoxied and solid riveted an aluminum skin to the outside of the transom to...

where would the centre of buoyancy be?

I’ve got an 18’ tinner that had a 15 gallon fuel tank come with it. It mounts beneath the flooring and I’m wondering where the best spot to mount it will be. Planning to put a 115 2-stroke or if I can find a 90 4-stroke on the back. Is the tank placement forward smart to balance the weight?

My apologies, that was going to be a piece of aluminum angle, I like the gusset idea a lot which will help add better braces and make a more secure transom.

I'll be done adding anything else to this thread, I was notified in a separate post that i never came back to update with how everything went. Unbelievably happy i went with my gut and trusted the process, it has caught many many fish and made many great memories and im glad to see it still...

I used a sheet metal plate with some threaded rod welded on so my seats would be securely attached to the flooring, yes i realized steel was heavier so i went with a thinner piece so it would distribute the load as well as add some weight forward without the additional seating and added kicked...

This was right after i completed adding flotation foam beneath the flooring and before sealing the wood. I got a colour matched paint for the carpet i intended to use so the sides would look more visually pleasing. Repainted the bow as it was the one spot i hadnt done while replacing the...

to remove the transom, i cut the top out and vacuumed what was left of the prior core (not much lol). I also accessed the transom by cutting the inner skin out to clean all surfaces and apply fresh glass to the outside before dropping the wood in. To reattach the cap i reinstalled the original...

this was the original layout of this boat the day i brought it home

Upon reopening my account for a new project boat i've started, i was reminded that i had this post from before. The fibreglass boat has been fully repaired and went over and is still running strong to this day, I'll post some pictures of the before and after changes and the new design i set up...

- I apologize but i am unsure of what you mean by 'bit'. - Upon further thinking yesterday and as i was replying to your above question with splashwell, welding a gusset would make the most sense onto the inner transom plate as i could then create additional knee braces that can attach to the...

I respect your reply but just as boat builders have been doing for numerous years, I’m going with wood. Properly sealed with the OTF and all my holes pre drilled 1/4” larger and filled with sealer and redrilled. Along with 4200 at every bolt and nut head. I don’t expect this boat to outlast me...

I've designed this file to plan out how i would go about bracing my transom to the hull, one main knee brace riveted down the middle and bolted to the transom in the center. I created two spots where i can attach additional braces that would connect from the stringers to the transom. I'm very...

I'm well into this project boat i have began on. I bought this 80's Springbok 18 foot aluminum boat, the hull originally was installed with a 3.0L engine, the previous owner i purchased it off had begun converting it to an outboard but skipped many crucial steps and sold me the boat and trailer...

Hello All, I wanted to document the process of replacing the transom and stringers on my Crestliner 1668 (1984 I believe) Boat is a 17’ deep V hull with a 100hp Evinrude. When I purchased it, the left motor well drain tube was missing and simply covered with duct tape. The bow eye bolt was also...