Rebuilding Transom/Stringers

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by Michael Vanek, Oct 6, 2021.

  1. Michael Vanek
    Joined: Oct 2021
    Posts: 1
    Likes: 0, Points: 1
    Location: Ontario

    Michael Vanek New Member

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    Hello All,

    I wanted to document the process of replacing the transom and stringers on my Crestliner 1668 (1984 I believe) Boat is a 17’ deep V hull with a 100hp Evinrude. When I purchased it, the left motor well drain tube was missing and simply covered with duct tape. The bow eye bolt was also loose which I replaced at the time with some wood and 4200. Upon an extremely wavy day, the transom cracked at the bottom of the motor mounts as I noticed by increased bilge operation and odd motor performance but I got it back in safely. I realized the transom had rotten out and will need replacement. When I looked at removing the transom from the interior, the floor was noticed to be rotten as well in spots and the underlying stringers had also deteriorated from the 40 years of use. I am mostly curious how one would go about accessing/removing the wooden transom, and should it be kept in 1 piece if possible or can it be built in sections among the 2 pieces of wood required. The stringers are all 3/4” and the middle piece is harder wood that’s two 3/4” pieces glued together. Transom is 1.5” thick.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 6, 2021
  2. Tops
    Joined: Aug 2021
    Posts: 132
    Likes: 33, Points: 28
    Location: Minnesota

    Tops Senior Member

    Hello Michael,

    To get started, I would visit the website Boatworks Today. In the video section there is a link to some transom repair videos.
    https://www.boatworkstoday.com/videos/

    I think the rest would be to replace like for like or better, use good materials, make sure all surfaces are cleaned and prepped before fiberglassing, and wear appropriate PPE (safety gear).

    PS-As we are coming into fall in North America, shop temperature must also be warm enough to do good glassing.
     
  3. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
    Posts: 6,370
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    All the work should be done from the inside.

    The boat has a cap and you will need to determine whether to lift it or cut it, but can be very hard/impossible to work around.
     

  4. Mr Efficiency
    Joined: Oct 2010
    Posts: 10,401
    Likes: 1,035, Points: 113, Legacy Rep: 702
    Location: Australia

    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    It is difficult to properly audit old boats, except that with age and visible structural problems usually are like the iceberg, there is a lot more under the surface out of sight ! How does it feel walking around inside the boat, if it is spongy underfoot, that would not be encouraging. That boat is a moderate vee hull, I doubt a "classic" hull in demand, and some really good hulls that size from the past when restored, are worth the money and effort put into them, but those boats are few, and far between.
     
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