You guys that use Epoxy glue?

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by thudpucker, Oct 10, 2010.

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  1. Roly
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    Roly Senior Member

    Whenever we forget the scales we use parallel sided containers and mark a stick 5:1.
    Never failed. Talk about storm in a cup. STFU.
     
  2. thudpucker
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    thudpucker Senior Member

    I went to L0WES this morning. They have some 'quick' stuff but nothing like we'd use.

    I guess its gonna be internet purchases for me.
     
  3. CatBuilder

    CatBuilder Previous Member

    Did you go in the paint aisle? They have the graduated mixing containers and good rollers. As for epoxy, buy that at a marine place like Jamstown Distributors.
     
  4. War Whoop
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    War Whoop Senior Member

    OK carbon fiber mast modifications that were over 200 feet in the air, this was a million dollar rig on a BIG dollar boat BTW ,you see I got jobs like this because; I do not use "Tins" but instead always do a proper batch and test the results, then proceed with the job,there is close then Exact! That is my point in all this and LOL it all looks the same,,, Well until the part is loaded.
     
  5. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Most Lowe's sell "LockTite" brand "Professional Epoxy". It's a 1:1 and hardly suitable for marine efforts, but could be used in a pinch in low load situations. I think it has a bit of silica mixed in with it.

    Thud, the best deal you can get on epoxy is Marinepoxy from www.Bateau.com.

    War Whoop, I'm not sure what your story is, but West System 205 and 206 can be mixed the same by weight or volume, but 207 and 209 can not, so you're asking a novice to work out details you learned the hard way decades ago. I find this irresponsible and misleading to say the least, unless of course you always answer someone's inquiries with a reply to your own questions. No one's going to argue a weight measurement isn't more precise, but I'll bet my chemistry and epoxy back ground against anyone's, that it doesn't matter in most backyard builder situations, especially a novice. Maybe you need to switch to decaff bud. The average backyard builder only needs a good quality 2:1 (like Marinepoxy) and you can be off by a few percent in either direction with no harm.

    The problem is we're not talking about your work, we were appropriately talking about the OP's needs in which the above applies.
     
  6. War Whoop
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    War Whoop Senior Member

    Sir your point is well taken, I have had discussions on this many times over the years with laboratory people and the tech staff and heard the warnings,also have seen nightmares resulting from poor practices, for backyard gluing a couple pieces of wood anything will do.Now with these chemical reactions that we cannot see I myself prefer to do all humanly possible to insure the end result is not surprising.
     
  7. missinginaction
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    missinginaction Senior Member

    I was reading through these posts and I never saw anyone mention medicine cups. Maybe I missed something.

    I use them all the time for mixing up small batches down to about 1/2 oz.

    Since I use system three epoxies the 1:2 ratio makes this easy and I've never had a problem with a bad batch.

    here's a link.....

    http://www.mertons.com/Tools/medicinecup.html
     
  8. srimes
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    srimes Senior Member

    I don't understand the ferocity of the argument here. The truth is BOTH WAYS WORK WHEN DONE CORRECTLY. Yes, weight is more precise. And you do need to know that weight ratios aren't necessarily the same as volume ratios.

    Where I work we do it both ways, but we always check calibration by weight. In one area we have thickened resin, so that can only be weighed up. Another area we use, *achem,* "calibrated buckets." This is simply a screw in a 5 gallon bucket to mark the fill line. In another we have valves that control the ratio by volume. Great when they work but we spend a lot of maintenance hours keeping them working, and a bit of downtime when we get air in the lines. In all the areas where we don't simply weigh up by weight we do ratio checks twice a shift.

    So chill out. There's more that one way to do it right.
     
  9. thudpucker
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    thudpucker Senior Member

    Thanks for that link Missinginaction.

    The confusion over Weight or Volume comes only because the Pro's who use a lot of the stuff, do it both ways.

    Us Hackers would only use one way or the other.
    Volume is much easier for small batches. So for me, 3:1 etc will be done with graduated marks. Not a balance scale like I originally thought would be the best way.

    I dont know why weight is so undesirable for small batches? Why not?
    A balance scale is kinda easy to make, and should be effective if the ratio can be achieved by weight.
    Sometimes with small amounts the difference in weights might be difficult to see. Even with a balance scale.
    If that's the problem, make bigger batches and expect to sacrifice some of the unused part so you could get the mix correct.

    Now what?
     
  10. mark775

    mark775 Guest

    Hula Hoop, I've learned a lot from you but I think its just about covered here -and everybody is impressed! I see you are into offshore powerboats and have drawings of same on your site. Have you considered looking at Apache's boats for some ideas? There's one called the Cold War in their vid and you can get a glimpse of the bottom in a few places. http://www.apachepowerboats.com/home2.php
     
  11. War Whoop
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    War Whoop Senior Member

    Goofy sticky marky, Why in the hell would I NEED to copy anyone?? BTW A apache has genes from a 35 Cigarette a 70's boat ,some advice with your knowledge of quality stay with projects that will fit in your dumpster.
     
  12. War Whoop
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    War Whoop Senior Member

    Sir No ferocity, just I do things a different way and always have ,my VE and gelcoat work is by batch weight as well ,that is why My contract tooling was some of the nicest around here from the first drop of resin it was controlled,there is no argument do it however you like.
     
  13. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Actually, in small amounts MIA, accuracy is very important and now I'm about to sound like I've flip flopped, but medicine cups, filled "to the line" can cause considerable error to creep into the mix. It's not the "pouring to the line" part of the equation that is troublesome, but the stuff left remaining on the sides of the container and mixing stick. With small amounts and especially with high resin/hardener ratios a minor deviation can mean a bad batch.

    This isn't the case with a syringe, because the plunger removes the contents very completely, insuring what you drew up into the syringe will also exit in a well metered fashion.

    This is only an issue on small batches.
     
  14. mark775

    mark775 Guest

    Okay, you DON'T think there is anything to be learned from the Apache people. I understand that they have come quite a way since shortly after the new ownership and they got rid of some deadwood there.
     

  15. Roly
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    Roly Senior Member

    If you guys have too much time on ur hands, your welcome down at my shed.
    I have fresh overalls, gloves,brushes, bubble busters,all sorts of grit, scales, syringes,
    (no drugs) except beers........you can weigh or measure any way you like........

    Oh ****! Wrong thread......sorry ladies......
     
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