wood deck on metal hydroplne hull

Discussion in 'Powerboats' started by metalboats, Dec 8, 2007.

  1. metalboats
    Joined: Dec 2007
    Posts: 6
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: california

    metalboats Junior Member

    I ve got an old f class hydro with a metal hull and what used to be plywood decks, any suggestions on the correct fastening method of plywood OVER a metal lattice like framework??
     
  2. metalboats
    Joined: Dec 2007
    Posts: 6
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: california

    metalboats Junior Member

    Well Metal boats doesnt look like any one has the answer!!!!!!
     
  3. Petros
    Joined: Oct 2007
    Posts: 2,936
    Likes: 139, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 1593
    Location: Arlington, WA-USA

    Petros Senior Member

    Counter sunk self tapping SS screws? Or soft upset rivets perhaps. Both are common methods. How thick is the plywood?

    Is there any indication on the hull? You almost certainly have to use mechanical fasteners, adhesives would never hold very long since the two materials behave differently, expand/contract with temp, moisture, etc.

    Good luck
     
  4. metalboats
    Joined: Dec 2007
    Posts: 6
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: california

    metalboats Junior Member

    The front deck from the bow to the cowl which covers the motor has a slight curve, I am using 1/2" ply, of the luan variety to make bending easier, I ve alraedy considered the stainless countersunk screw option,and will most probably need to predrill all holes through the metal lattice work. Im not familiar with the rivets you suggested? (Someone also said they would bolt and nut, as in wood on wood construction, but the space between hull and deck does not allow acess at the foremost part of the bow.) Do you think that I will have to predrill the countersink into the wood to avoid any splitting or burring of the veneer on the ply ? TYhanks in advance
     
  5. diagram
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 43
    Likes: 13, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 17
    Location: CT

    diagram Junior Member

    Metal,

    Yes, you will have to predrill and countersink and definitely use SS. Neater and will finish better for pretty much any finish you choose. You should probably use bungs, too it will also make your finish better. You may want to use something to bed the ply on frames - a judgement call - don't know if you have seams that need to be water-tight. How thick is the metal? You could drill and tap - not too bad if you set up a couple of drills and keep the rpm's low -oil - could go pretty fast. Sounds like you may have curvature in more than one direction so you may have to torture the ply to some degree. Might try clamping first to see if it will work - clamp it anyway to drill and fit. What was there originally? Good luck.
     
  6. metalboats
    Joined: Dec 2007
    Posts: 6
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: california

    metalboats Junior Member

    metal hydro

    Thanks for the reply. I dont know what originally covered the deck, it appears that it was plywood as there were signs of how it was attached(poorly). The boat was built in the 50s by a gentleman in Stockton Ca, named Christopherson. There was atotal of three, one sank in the deep water channel and no effort was made to recover it, I have one, and the whereabouts of the other are unknown. As it was told to me by Christophersons son, his father and a friend who worked for Stevens Boat Works had built the hydros for a local racer, his father aquired one years later and converted the cockpit by widenening the seat area to a side by side two seater, and cruised the bars in the Delta for many years during the 60s and 70s giving young ladies exciting rides. Ive been promised pictures but as of yet my efforts to obtain them have been unsucessful. We own a bar, and I have a friend who is really into the Rat Rod custom car scene, my plan is to use the boat for advertisement, as my friend has volunteered to tow the boat with him to all shows he attends. I would like to end up with a quality result as far as the deck is concerned, this project is definitly being used as a learning experience as I also have a 1957 Rowley Craft (also metal hull and wood deck) that closley resembles the barrelbacks of the day. nThanks for your time and response.
     
  7. diagram
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 43
    Likes: 13, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 17
    Location: CT

    diagram Junior Member

    Sounds like an interesting project. Good luck and remember - It always takes longer than you think!
     
  8. metalboats
    Joined: Dec 2007
    Posts: 6
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: california

    metalboats Junior Member

    Ive started to attach the deck Im using a marine adhesive for joining wood to metal called 5200. Also following up with some ss srcews countersunk.so far so good. thanks again
     

  9. diagram
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 43
    Likes: 13, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 17
    Location: CT

    diagram Junior Member

    Metal,
    don't skimp on the screws. Look for old fastening pattern as guide. Or just make sure the ply is seating evenly/flat on the frame - no "bubbling" between fasteners. Mark your screws evenly so you pattern is neat and symetrical. An aesthetic consideration. I would not rely on 5200 as my main fastener. Post some pics if you get a chance.
     
Loading...
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.