windows-sika beading tips

Discussion in 'Materials' started by vikingyarchts, Jun 13, 2016.

  1. vikingyarchts
    Joined: Jun 2016
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    Location: new gretna

    vikingyarchts New Member

    anybody have any tips? gotta caulk the outside of windows-almost an inch and a half. and it's getting tedious-anybody have any suggestions?tips? apologize if this is in the wrong section
  2. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    That is too much of a gap. Were the windows improperly installed or is the boat structure sagging badly?
  3. michael pierzga
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    Location: spain

    michael pierzga Senior Member must be asking how to form an exterior bead.

    Its a skill. You need a profile tool and plenty of soapy water.

    A profile tool could be shop made...old credit card for instance

    Or for some profiles like exterior window caulking ...a skinned potatoe. not making this up ...a skinned...wet potato shaped to the correct profile

    Plenty of soapy water

    Be sure your tape off work is clean and bumps.

    I prefer to remove the tape as soon as it is profiled.

    The profile start and stop zone...profile tool lift off zone always a bit of a fuss.

    Patience. Practice
  4. michael pierzga
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    Location: spain

    michael pierzga Senior Member

    Also...window bedding is a structural adhesive operation. You typical use sika UV. To adhere the widow into its frame .

    Beading is cosmetic.

    I have noticed that Sika 290 DC , deck caulk, forms a much better bead. Its viscousily is better and it is self leveling. Very good looking caulking beads.

    You should contact SIKA technical department and ask is you can substitute Sika DC for the window beading instead of the normal Sika UV structural adhesive as a bead .

  5. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I agree in that the gap is way too big for a single bead. Typically you'll fill the gap with something else, like a extruded foam rod, then apply the bead over this. In fact, the particular goo you do use will suggest it's maximum bead width, so check the MSD for dimensions.

    Michael is correct in that you "tool" the bead (and the bedding if necessary) and the two processes are separate. Bedding seals and often also grips the port, while the bead is usually cosmetic. This said, you can do both operations at the same time, with the same goo, but the gap needs to be within the range of the goo and 1.5" is just way too big for a single pass.

    All the major formulator have this type of goo, most are now single part, but the best ones still seem to be a two part mix. Lastly, the trick to a nice bead is the speed you pull the tool, which is usually faster than you feel comfortable doing it, but gives the best results.
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