WINDORA'S - Refit

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by Phil Christieso, Aug 2, 2016.

  1. Phil Christieso
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 83
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 36
    Location: Nelson NZ

    Phil Christieso Junior Member

    After an 8 year circumnavigation with our 2 boys we came home with a list of changers and upgrades for Windora. Lynda and I would like to share this experience with you.
    Laying the rig down for transporting
    Lifting out
    On the move
    The old Pilothouse
    2 days to build a shed
    Remove the lid - genset - 1939 P6 Perkins
     

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  2. Phil Christieso
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 83
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 36
    Location: Nelson NZ

    Phil Christieso Junior Member

    1 - Remove the rest of the house to the deck
    2 - Windora has 5 water tight bulkheads. This one was 9" thick. Each bulkhead is attached to a 3" thick ground bolted into the hull
    3 - See the ground and the pattern for the back of the house reducing this bulkhead to 4"
    4 - Patterns for new fuel 1000Lts and water 900Lts tanks
    5 - Note the 3" x 16" floors at 9" centers bolted to the 16"x 20" keelson all in NZ kauri.
    6 - Painting 2 pack
    7 - Tanks 5mm alloy for fuel 2mm 304 S/S water
     

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  3. Phil Christieso
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 83
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 36
    Location: Nelson NZ

    Phil Christieso Junior Member

    One of the many changes. Lowering the pilothouse 7"
    1 - I thought maybe a chainsaw job but I managed to remove the drawbolts and this is refitting the 12"x1.5" kauri cabin sides
    2 - Going back together, note the 7" drop
    3 - Gluing 1/2" ply right around the inside face of the house increasing it to 2" thick this was done to allow for the gas filled double glazing. Also meant I could reuse the deck beams.
    4 - Routing out the windows
    5 - Moving the companionway and scuttle
    6 - Glassing the Pilothouse
    7 - A new look
     

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  4. Phil Christieso
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 83
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 36
    Location: Nelson NZ

    Phil Christieso Junior Member

    1 - Boat-Workshop-Most important of all STAIRS
    2 - Old Engine 1939-P6-Cast iron pistons max rpm1500 x 49 hp
    3 - New Engine 6B Cummins 65 hp @ 1500 rpm and 115 @ 2500 rpm
    4 - Marinizing new engine
    5 - Building the heat-exchanger using copper-nickel
    6 - Making up pipework
    7 - Fitting gearbox 260 PRM and Cummins salt water pump
     

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  5. Phil Christieso
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 83
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 36
    Location: Nelson NZ

    Phil Christieso Junior Member

    Building a Cockpit

    1 - The aft deck with the old winches on deck
    2 - Removing the hatch
    3 - Marking out for the combings
    4 - Cutting out the deck
    5 - The cockpit, behind a watertight bulkhead
    6 - Lynda blocking out for the curved carlin cut at 10 dec.
    7 - Laminating over the curved carlin
    8 - Laminating the combings 4x1/4" plywood
    9 - Starting the lockers
    10 - Laminating the gutters
    11 - LPG locker
    12 - Cockpit lids
    13 - Gluing the teak winch blocks
    14 - Making the cappings
    15 - Painting
    16 - See the toe space when standing at the winches
    17 - The finished cockpit
    18 - The new look with the lowed pilothouse
     

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  6. Phil Christieso
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 83
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 36
    Location: Nelson NZ

    Phil Christieso Junior Member

    Chainplates

    1 - Having rebuilt the toerails in South Africa making them wider to take both the stanchions and now the chainplates
    2 - The old chainplates on the outside of the hull
    3 - Lynda removing the blocking that the bolts past through
    4 - Drilling the holes to take the 15" long bolts
    5 - The new deck fitting and monel bolt
    6 - Ready for bedding
    7 - The running backstay sheave built into the mizzen chainplate
    8 - Inboard with the head of the chainplate putting some of the load into the beamshelf and the clamp
    9 - A clean hull
     

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  7. Phil Christieso
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 83
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 36
    Location: Nelson NZ

    Phil Christieso Junior Member

    Reclassing Windora's Hull

    1 - Prep for laying extra glass around the outside edge of the transom 4x650 gram double bias
    2 - That 650 DB is great stuff- the first layer going across the transom and 4" onto the hull followed by a second going 8" onto the hull without cutting the cloth.
    3 - The next is 2 x 24' all the way down the stem
    4 - It took me 20 days to completely grind the old 6 oz glass off the hull
    5 - 5 o'clock in the morning using a very large diesel heater to heat the hull
    6 - The first drop going on both sides of the hull, I found 20 men who owed me a favor and we glassed the whole boat in 4 hours
    7 - Each drop overlapped about 1" -the lap then being cut down the center and the 2 pieces removed leaving the perfect butt.
    8 - Lynda and I precut all the cloth and 2 teams working forward and 2 teams working aft finished all the vertical drops in 2 hours
    9 - The resin was mixed 5 litres at a time and applied with nook and cranny rollers
    10 - The longitudinal followed next starting at the gunnel and working down so the first lap was below the waterline as this layer could not be cut
    11 - The last longitudinal going on completely covering the lead ballast
    12 - The micro-balloons going on the topsides the same day - everything wet on wet
    13 - Beers and barbecue to celebrate a job well done.
    14 - 150 litres of epoxy resin and 150 kilograms of 650 gram double bias cloth
     

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  8. Phil Christieso
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 83
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 36
    Location: Nelson NZ

    Phil Christieso Junior Member

    Long Boarding and Sanding

    1 - Added a timber ground 3 3/4"x3/4" and glassed it to go under the teak beltings.
    2 - Sprayed with highbuild then more sanding
    3 - Followed by topcoat
    4 - Lynda mixing more epoxy. Used 250 litres in the whole refit
     

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  9. Phil Christieso
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 83
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 36
    Location: Nelson NZ

    Phil Christieso Junior Member

    The Main Compaionway

    1 - The pilothouse now painted and the rebates cut to take the drain tray fitted under the sliding hatch.
    2 - Building the tray which is falling aft to drain the water either side of the door.
    3 - Looking up the drain tray now fitted.
    4 - Building the teak door.
    5 - The finished companionway leaving the top deck flush and easy to walk on.
     

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  10. Phil Christieso
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 83
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 36
    Location: Nelson NZ

    Phil Christieso Junior Member

    Thinning of the Bulkheads

    1 - Removing the old saloon and galley.
    2 - Reducing the 2 bulkheads from 6" thick down to 3" this made the finished saloon 6" longer.
    3 - The bulkheads were made up of 2x1" thick shiplap with canvas in-between set in red lead paint fastened to 3"x3" framing then closed in with 5/8" plywood.
    4 - After taking off the ply I then screwed the 2 one inch thick diagonals top to bottom next to each frame.
    5 - After removing the framing the surface was ground back to clean wood then the bulkhead skinned with 3/8" plywood.
    6 - The whole area was sanded back and repainted with red lead paint.
     

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    Last edited: Aug 30, 2016
  11. Phil Christieso
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 83
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 36
    Location: Nelson NZ

    Phil Christieso Junior Member

    New Saloon and Galley

    1 - Fitting the sole and settee framework.
    2 - Between the frames was glassed to stop the paint cracking and finished in 2 pack paint. All the bulkheads have been covered with Matai Tongue and Groove a New Zealand hardwood glued on using epoxy.
    3 - Framing up the galley.
    4 - The bench top with the s/s sink epoxy glued under the formica.
    5 - The bi-fold lids and bins behind the bench top.
    6 - Note the cove on the fiddles no corners easy to clean.
    7 - All finished in Matai.
    8 - Works really well at sea.
     

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    Last edited: Sep 1, 2016
  12. Phil Christieso
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 83
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 36
    Location: Nelson NZ

    Phil Christieso Junior Member

    Mouldings and Trimwork

    1 - This is the bulkhead behind the engine reduced to 4" thick it forms the back of the pilothouse.
    2 - The original bulkhead was 9" thick now down to 4" making the pilothouse 5" longer
    3 - Machining the trim
    4 - Fitting the corners first
    5 - About 20 hours to make and fit
    6 - Hand hold
     

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  13. SeattleSailor
    Joined: Mar 2017
    Posts: 7
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Seattle

    SeattleSailor Junior Member

    Wow, amazing! Thanks for sharing with us Phil! Stats? (LOA, Beam Draught?)
     
  14. Phil Christieso
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 83
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 36
    Location: Nelson NZ

    Phil Christieso Junior Member

    Windora's Diamentions

    LOL - 50'
    LOD - 43'
    LWL - 38'
    Beam - 13'
    Draft - 6'6"
    Displacement - 45,000 lb's
    Ballast Lead - 13,000 lb's
    Prop - 4 Blade 28"x17"
     

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  15. SeattleSailor
    Joined: Mar 2017
    Posts: 7
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Seattle

    SeattleSailor Junior Member

    I calc your Angle of vanishing stability at 134 degrees, with an wag at lwl of 34 ft(?) 120 or higher is the figure many use for blue water fitness, you are well above ( or below) that. Regardless, great job at a massive refit!
     
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