while i agree that following Chappel's drawings exactly would result in a better boat, my goal is to make a boat based on his drawings, not an exact copy, as i think that would be more fun.
i am still working on the design, and i have moved the max beam aft and increased it to 5.5 feet to closer match Chappel's drawings while also still varying enough to be unique. (i have also determined the placement of the frames)
View attachment 170148[/QUO
while i agree that following Chappel's drawings exactly would result in a better boat, my goal is to make a boat based on his drawings, not an exact copy, as i think that would be more fun.
i am still working on the design, and i have moved the max beam aft and increased it to 5.5 feet to closer match Chappel's drawings while also still varying enough to be unique. (i have also determined the placement of the frames)
View attachment 170148
On this hull the point of maximum beam shifts from the floors to the Gunwales. On the floors, the maxiumum beam is much closer to center, and should give really good performance and handling. The deck swells out forward, which will tend to deflect water coming from the front. This will make a slightly drier boat. This boat is most most likely designed to skim over the water on nearly even keel, so the design on the bottom is much more important. The V bottom is used to gain displacement and beam without ruining sailing qualities. It works well, but will likely have a higher displacement than you need. In this type of design, in order to maximize performance, you need to find out what the weight of your finished boat will be. Then you need to figure out how much you need to carry. Redraw the lines so the displacment is very close to your load plus hull weight plus sailing gear. Remember, this was designed as a working boat that lugged around huge amounts of seafood. If you aren't planning on lugging around seafood you can get rid of displacement. With a boat like this you are able to easily trade displacement for performance. I would be very interested to see the stations for this design to see if there is any twist in the sides. With this design, I would aim to cut displacement, increase flare, and make sure the flare increases slightly from stem to stern. I would aim for stability to carry sail on nearly even keel, since the extra width will increase weather helm as the boat gets over powered. A hiking crew will help greatly with stability. Flare especially where the crew is likely to be will assist with this, since it gets the crew farther to windward. Decreasing the bottom width will also cut down on wetted area. Building this boat as light as possible will pay off huge in speed. Traditional methods are heavy. With stitch and glue plywood construction and a careful trimming of the lines, you should be able to develop a really fast boat from this.
In regard to the advantages of placing beam forward or aft, it depends on what you need to do. Maximum stowage means beam carried far forwards. Maximum speed on a planing dingy will see a shift rearward with a fine entry. Fine entries with flat runs tend to be very fast on planing boats. The finer entry can cause stability problems though. If your bow submarines then you aren't going to go very fast. On the other hand, a broad bow will keep you from pointing well in rough water and cause your bow to be swatted around by waves. So everything is a trade off. A thin hull can get away with more beam forward and still be fast. A beamier hull needs the max beam closer to center. The beam can also shift as it does in this boat to get some combination of the best of both. The old timers in Europe used to say it is more important to consider the flow around the stern than the bow. They built bluff bows with fine runs. As a result, their boats got thinner and thinner until they were unsafe. On this side of the pond, the opposite happened. We built wide shoal schoooners with fine entrances that sank by the dozens in every storm.
Racing rules created some real freaks.
As a general rule, if your maximum beam is within 5-10% of center on the bottoms, you will not get into too much trouble. You have to look carefully at your displacement currve to determine where you need to put weight to settle on your lines. More beam near the ends will cut down on pitchpoling. Of course more beam on the ends also means more bouyancy in a seaway. This can lead to being thrown off course. Flat water planing boats can have maximum beam carried almost to the bow. Boats like this are very fast, but only in strong winds and flat water. See inland racing scows. Look at 49ers for a fast boat used in rough water. Max beam is very far back, and carried very far back. The bottom profile is very different from the topsides, even without hiking racks.
All in all, the exact location of maximum beam is far less important than making sure the beam location works with the overall design.