what next-lofting

A laser pointer puts out a line, but if used perpendicular or nearly so on a surface, will produce a point of light. If the pointer is held at a fairly obtuse or acute angle, you'll get a line. This said, some lasers are much better at making lines, then points and the opposite of course. When I speak of lasers, I assume you'll use a device that will cast a line. A point is pretty much useless unless it revolves, at which it becomes very handy (and a line), especially if you have a remote control and can stop the point, maybe inching it along as needed. This is precisely the type of laser I use to make dead bang waterlines.

 

The one I have does points and lines; the interference grid that fans the beam pops off -

- but I think we have beaten it to death . . .

 

So, is this to assume you are of the particle persuasion, in regard to beating a focused photon beam to death? I have to admit being more of an energy guy myself, but willing to accept some particle behavior when they meet other particles.

 

I have worked horizontal lines with a clear flexible tube, keeping one end meniscus stationary and moving and marking at the second meniscus.

 

http://kelly-smith.suite101.com/how-to-make-and-use-a-water-level-a87767

 

Hoyt: I guess that's what is called thread drift, from vertical to horizontal! Happens to us all in the end (or maybe in a bar) . . . Terry

 

I don't understand. I thought you were looking for a simple way of marking a straight (from one perspective) line on a curved surface.

 

Im with you Hoyt, simple

I was taught way way back....we had a taught piece of string aligned where required, chalk it up..then twang it..hey presto...straight line!

 

plumb bobs? (as a guide).

i like em

 

Just read post #1 guys . . . he wants to measure half-models so he can loft 'em full-size. Today's posts are starting to read like Saturday night's . . .

 

plan

OK, after reading all the ideas, here is what I have come up with. I don't have a laser so I'm going with Pars idea of using a guide to measure the hull. I have a waterline scribed on the hull and will add a piece of wood to the sheer to hold the waterline parallel to a work surface. The hull will be screwed to the work surface and a straight edge will run parallel to the center line of the hull. Waterlines and stations will be marked and measured from a small steel square held against the straight edge with a second square held against the first to get the vertical measurements at every intersrction of the lines. I have two small machinists squares with markings down to 64th of an inch. The marign of error will be rather large, but I hope the lofting will work as intended and smooth everything out. A perfect reproduction of the model probably isn't possible, but very close and fair will work. This isn't an attempt to precisely duplicate an existing boat or build something to class rules, what I'm trying for is going to be a unique one-off. I just milled up 500 feet of 1" X 5/16" western red cedar to add to the 2500 L.F. I already have (all free wood), so I have plenty of material if I can just make the time to do the lines and lofting

 

An excellent book on lofting would be "Lofting" by Allan H Vaitses, pretty sure Wooden boat sell it.

 

Taking the lines from a model isn't supposed to be particularly precise, just close. You just get offsets which need to be drawn full size. Again the lofting process (drawing full size) will sort out and fair the hull's lines and it's this that you use to make molds, pick up bevels, etc.