What floats your boat.

Anything you wouldn't want or need, this thread has got it !

 

Yippee a post me and my customer can agree with.

 

Again, it has no relevance to your customer's project, does it ?

 

I have to work around my customers needs not my own or what any one else would wish to decide for him. He has not stated a minimum draft.
I used a set up similar to your boat picture and trailer and it was good for local boating and I got cold and wet many times.
The customer has customers to buy for personal ownership, and customers who wish to hire boats for tourists to either trailer and tour New Zealand`s beautiful country, or have as accommodation to use on water in some lovely quiet place and a choice to stay at motor camps or motel, so maintenance must be kept to a minimum.

Many tourists are adventurous and even they want reasonable comfort for an extended trip and holiday.Boats like yours are used at some camping grounds
for local hire use.

 

The whole thread is supposed to be about designing a boat for a customer`s needs. Not my boat and ideas are better than yours.
A greater amount of buoyancy will support more weight than a smaller amount of buoyancy if in contact with water over a larger area.

 

One of my designs may be suited for this customer but not exactly as the customer wants, how ever if he knows more it gives more choice of options he can choose or combine.

The smaller Myark folding trailer barges that are 2.4 X wide when unfolded in pontoon shape, when structures are folded its 1. wide X .900 high X 4.800 long and weighs 350kg including the built in trailer system.

It has a simple tent structure stored in hulls with other camping accessories, also you can drive a smaller camper van on top.

It does 20 knots with a 15hp out board when van or car is driven off, say on a remote island, lake or river edge, the tent structure not only fits on the pontoon, but tent also can be assembled on land when not on pontoon.

It opens and shuts like a garage door and the wheels automatically rise out of the water when unfolded.

The tandem suspension and wheels can be removed and placed in each corner to act as torsions bumper bars.

To keep the weight down in trailer mode the torsions suspension are made from aluminium casings and titanium torsion bar, arm, axles, hubs and stubs with the bearings made from 440c stainless that have a hardness of 60 HRC.

The bearings have a grease system that keeps the water out and are far superior than bearing buddies.

I understand the customer does not want the wheels to touch the water which there are ways, but if the water has no affect on parts then that is not an issue.

The pontoon tows opened or shut meaning when not used as a boat it can be used as a 2.4 X 4.8 tandem trailer.

If limited room in garage, say a one car park only garage space, the pontoon then can be unfolding, then the car can drive on top allowing the car and the pontoon to store in a one car space parking area.

This also allows room to work under the car if need change oil of fix exhaust etc.

The cost of this type of product would be about $10.000 including out board motor and self trailering system when in mass production.

This can suit hire out company that can store in minimum space, when transporting they can place two more Myark folding trailer barges on top so they can tow three pontoons at a time to make transporting to remote paradises financially viable..

Another market could be when future floods caused by global warming or the certain sea rise in the near future.

The sizes go smaller or very large, also Myark folding trailer barges they can be launched and retrieved in any remote area that has no public boat ramps like most boats need.

This may not suit your customer because the idea may be to advanced for his thinking but it does no harm to suggest for some one who is researching ideas.

 

No good? Well, **** then.

Is there any way to magnetize the water and the boat so the water would repel the hull giving the boat a shallower draft? Maybe in line with a rheostat to give instantly adjustable draft?

I know that for a number of years now, work has been proceeding in order to bring perfection to the crudely conceived idea of a transmission that would not only supply inverse reactive current for use in unilateral phase detractors, but would also be capable of automatically synchronizing cardinal grammeters. Such an instrument is the turbo-encabulator.

Now basically the only new principle involved is that instead of power being generated by the relative motion of conductors and fluxes, it's produced by the modial interaction of magneto-reluctance and capacitive diractance.

The original machine had a base plate of pre-famulated amulite surmounted by a malleable logarithmic casing in such a way that the two spurving bearings were in a direct line with the panametric fam. The latter consisted simply of six hydrocoptic marzlevanes, so fitted to the ambifacient lunar waneshaft that side fumbling was effectively prevented.

The main winding was of the normal lotus-o-delta type placed in panendermic semi-boloid slots of the stator, every seventh conductor being connected by a non-reversible termie pipe to the differential girdle spring on the "up" end of the grammies.

The turbo-encabulator has now reached a high level of development, and it’s being successfully used in the operation of novertrunnions. Moreover, whenever a forescent skor motion is required, it may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce soinasoidal repleneration.

So really, if we can do that, anything is possible.

 

I have never been so tempted to indulge in mom's pain pills as during the last two hours. The scotch has suffered though.

Putting boat on floor requires manual effort to raise it back on to trailer. I found it easier to tie stern eyes to tree branch or high on wall and loosen winch strap 10 feet and drive out from under boat. Boat now hanging above trailer. Attach a sling to bow eye and ease trailer back and disconnect trailer winch strap. Boat is hanging so as to be able to back trailer underneath it. I did this about 100 times in the keys. Make sure you don't get a block hockled funny because the boat fell once when I did this. Block was used to lower boat back on trailer.

"don't want to get hubs wet". This is where your unfortunate (and statistically improbable) nonaquaintances have left you in the lurch. Do you propose to use 4' diameter wheels on this trailer? I like skinny water boats, and have some experience with skinny water camp cruising. I usually had the front hubs of my truck in the water when I launched. Ramps tend to not have much slope when the water is only 3' deep a mile from shore. If you don't want to have problems with bearings, buy bearings you won't have problems with. I had a pair on a trailer for 20 years in regular salt water use. Trailer dissolved, but bearings were still good. Replacing cheap bearings annually costs about $20 and would take all of 10 minutes with the boat off the trailer. You are going to go to how much trouble to avoid this?

6" deadrise is probably more than you need or want. 5-7 degrees at midship ought to do. That's 2.5 - 3.5 inches for a boat you are describing. For efficient use of materials, a flair of about 15 degrees for the topsides makes a very versatile craft (continued to a height corresponding to 10 degrees heel at max load), but for minimum draft, a bit less flair and more waterline beam may be desired.

Contrary to what others have said, I think a file bottom boat trailers better, loads and launches better, than a flattie without a skeg or strip of keel. It is easier to support on center rollers and side bunks. And when stored on a trailer, rainwater runs out the drainhole instead of collecting in one corner.:idea:

I consider 3.75 inches the minimum practical clearance under the center of the trailer's cross frame at the axle, and 1.75 about the minimum practical distance from frame bottom up to hull. The boat's trim on the trailer can be adjusted for the angle of the ramps you use. Add in 3" deadrise and you will need about 9" immersion at the wheel to float the boat lightship if she floats with her chine just wet at midship. A tilt trailer can save you 2" in the circumstances described (and is perhaps more useful as a utility trailer), but do you really think the bearings aren't going to get wet if they are 1" above the mean water level? The utility bed will want to be some sort of strap-on appliance. Mine screwed to the bunks. It was also a table for garden plants when it wasn't a trailer bed. I lived in an rv site, space was precious.

 

"I lived in an rv site, space was precious."

I know what you mean as the RV camping ground sites on road side of he the lakes pictured are packed like rats but with a Myark folding trailer barges is paradise space at the back of the lakes getting away from the rat race who have to pay camping ground fees.

 

That makes no sense whatsoever. More buoyancy will support more weight by definition, regardless of surface area.

And surface area alone is not enough to determine buoyancy. I showed you that on page 6:

 

He is trying hard to turn this into another myark barge thread. Should be in advertising.

 

At least it is clear what Myark is peddling, I have no idea what kind of quixotic adventure Tom Kane is on !

 

It appears not everyone gets your use of irony.
Looks like you need to plaster your posts with .

 

Hi Mr Efficency.
Can I see one of your boat builds or designs ? or have you none ? I can not see any in your picture gallery.

 

No, I have nothing I want to sell. I may post an idea I have in the near future, to get some reactions. An idea not fully germinated just yet.