I disagree and/or have problems in a few things here. First, nails or fasteners aren't a bad thing and structural elements have been fastened for centuries, without difficulty. I don't see what's going on other than substituting a chine log for a taped seam. The idea of a composite "chine stringer" (what is that) isn't anything new either.
I don't see what built in floatation has to do with chine logs or taped chine seams. The only way to avoid a chine seam is on a round bilge hull form. If it's the chine log you're looking to eliminate, well taped seams are well established, proven and seamless, once completed. On my site, I offer ratios for making fillets and taping schedules, based on plywood thickness. These ratios are safe, though a bit much on particularly small craft (canoes and kayaks) or small racers, where every ounce counts.
Chines don't have to be a chore or even difficult. There's a number of ways to cut them, but my prefered method is to spring battens around the panel perimeters, so they stand off of the molds, rather than be "let" into them. This permits a flush cutting router bearing to ride on this batten, when the time comes. The next step after the batten "line off" is to use stiff board (not corrugated) to pick up the panel shape. I use this stuff you can get at the local big box store and it's intended as a floor saving product, used during remodeling projects. It's a stiff "chipboard" product, cuts easily and it's cheap and acts just like plywood will, if draped over a set of molds. Cut off a piece (it comes on 3' tall rolls) to cover the panel you want to create, stapling or tacking it down to the battens lightly as you go. Now, trace the panel outline from below onto the chipboard. Remove the template from the boat and a perfect tracing of the panel dimensions is in hand. You can cut it, but I don't bother. I just place it on the planking stock and cut both the template and plywood at the same time, saving the trouble. I don't cut to the line, but about an 1/8" outside of it. In fact, you don't need this template step at all. You can just place the planking stock directly over the molds, with enough hanging over all the edges and simply go right to the router, but this takes a bit of bravery most don't have. The router bit will follow the battens and cut a perfect representation of each panel.
I use this method on lapstrakes and hard chine hulls. It's fast, precise and if you're confident, you can skip the templating process and cut the planking stock right on the station molds.
