U bolts or weld trailer

Discussion in 'Materials' started by Guest62110524, Jul 19, 2009.

  1. Guest62110524

    Guest62110524 Previous Member

    this is a nine m trailer I am making to carry long plates
    the gvm will be 2.8 tonnes
    I need raise the deck above the tyre tops, which means another shorter chassis rail under the main rail
    the main rail is 150 x50
    the rail to run under 100 x50
    I can do two things
    weld it under
    or use U bolts say 4 per side, the extra rail 2.0m say 14mm bolts The lower rail should I know be twice as long, but the darn money for another 8m steel, and the tare weight keeps rising
    Tandam axle , given that trailer axle kits are usually supplid with 4 u bolts each axle , which are usually 10mm
    I could then shift the axle config fore and aft if necessary
    thoughts please
    this will also be a mobile cutting table
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2010
  2. nero
    Joined: Aug 2003
    Posts: 624
    Likes: 13, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 112
    Location: Marseille, France / Illinois, US

    nero Senior Member

    Hey whoosh,

    Go look at a semi trailer. They have a mechanical sliding unit that shifts the tandems. Since you are trying to gain height something like this would be ideal. You may even find an old trailer and get the slides off of it.

  3. Guest62110524

    Guest62110524 Previous Member

    give me a yell here when you are inside, will call you
  4. Fanie
    Joined: Oct 2007
    Posts: 4,603
    Likes: 170, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 2484
    Location: Colonial "Sick Africa"

    Fanie Fanie

    Replace the sq tube with two rect tubes side by side to the tow hitch to form the front triangle - it will be stiffer and provide better support for the hitch's bolt down.

    Personally I would have used channel instead of tubing. It would last about 4000 times longer and comes out at the same weight. Weld a flat bar on the top side of the frame front to back. Stiffen the trailer quite a bit.

    To space the frame over the axle - which I hope is a rub axle(s) you chose - you can use two V's either side. If you put any more supports on the axle they can be vertical posts only. The V's will keep them upright. The V's should have side swing support as well wrt the trailer frame, to make sure the load won't bend the V's when you corner.

    I would weld the V's to the trailer, but bolt to the axle. 4 x 16mm bolts washers and nylocks both sides.

    My trailer had drum brakes, what a load of crap. Worked only for ten minutes then needed some adjustment. This I ripped out and installed disk brakes made out of Mazda and Golf parts, available for relative inexpensive.

    Will never build a trailer without disk brakes again. Only a pleasure. Even on a steep downhill and a heavy load you don't know you are towing something.
  5. Guest62110524

    Guest62110524 Previous Member

    I built 25 nine m trailers:)) al al for big boats I only wanted know about the u bolt idea, will use one disced axle, , and go back to 2 tonne
    thanks fanie, the structure aint finished, go shoot something
  6. TeddyDiver
    Joined: Dec 2007
    Posts: 2,581
    Likes: 124, Points: 73, Legacy Rep: 1650
    Location: Finland/Norway

    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler

    What type of axle kit? This might make it easier..

    Attached Files:

  7. Guest62110524

    Guest62110524 Previous Member

    teddy!! it is what we call a walking beam axle config(rocker roller)
    how are things, in the North, did you shoot a Mosse or a Ruski!!

  8. TeddyDiver
    Joined: Dec 2007
    Posts: 2,581
    Likes: 124, Points: 73, Legacy Rep: 1650
    Location: Finland/Norway

    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler

    I'd like to sometimes... but generally we shoot moose.. and maybe a reindeer if it's not our herd :cool:
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