If it is the same boat in the last two posts,somebody made those guys a lot more work than was necessary.I would have eliminated every other frame from about No 5 to the stern and saved a bunch of time that way.The hull mould in the most recent post appears to be devoid of framing and I do hope the fellow who made the decisions about frame spacing on the plug can be kept away from the job.I also hope the guys on the shop floor have enough sense to mark the waterline in at least six locations before releasing the mould.I absolutely guarantee that somebody or other will insist that a laser level is the only way to do the job.It can be.It can also be wrong if it has been dropped and not verified to be accurate.So my habit is to use a water level to mark at least three targets,on the workshop walls,on benches or even the intended boat with a pencil line and to verify that the laser agrees with the line from the water level.In the unlikely event that nobody has been persuaded that a laser level is essential,a water level alone is quite sufficient as long as the people on both ends understand which part of the meniscus to reference and the perils of parallax.
To deal with the boat shown isn't difficult if the building has overhead cranes as the framed mould can simply(!) be lifted free and wheeled away for trimming and then waxing.Inverting the plug isn't necessarily difficult or dangerous if care is used.A novice has several pitfalls to avoid and the possibility of damage or injury is a very real possibility,which absolutely has to be guarded against.The whole process is made a bit more complicated if one has to wheel the whole thing outside and use a hired in crane.It isn't impossible and it can be really useful to have a couple of dozen old tyres of various sizes to cushion the plug as it is rolled over.Two good crane drivers can turn them with very little risk of damage if the funding for two cranes can be extracted from somewhere or other.
With the hull plug in the same attitude that the boat is expected to assume,it can be checked for level and squareness before starting on the deck plug.Depending of the way the construction was planned,and if it wasn't planned things won't be made easier,work can progress.Bulkheads are irrelevant to the plug and will be bonded into the hull when the real hull is laminated.The framing for the plug can be attached to the existing plug framing with butt straps and if the plug had insufficient thought put into it's construction,some of the framing will have to be cut away to get down to deck height in places.For such situations it will be necessary to produce accurate patterns,which once again is easier with a good CAD model of the boat.In the case of the boat shown,the people working on the deck plug will be cursing the number of frames they have to perform gymnastics around as they will have very little working space.In other situations you will have to dig out straight edges,framing squares and dividers.The plug frames will obviously stop at the inboard surface of the plug and a strip of ply or MDF equivalent to the distance to the outer surface of the vertical flange is simply added all round the outside of the plug and then a horizontal flange is attached below it.
