Thick biaxial glass pros/cons?

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by furious cub, Jun 20, 2013.

  1. furious cub
    Joined: Jan 2013
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    Location: australia

    furious cub Junior Member

    Nah im not leaving out the csm. id do the stringers first then the knees/bulkheads.
    The hulls only 14foot and i was going to put one layer of csm over the whole hull for a fresh start then do all layers with in 24 of eachother for a chemical bond. I was thinking 2layers of each should be enough???

    and no i didnt change the thickness to not worry about corners. It was to my understanding plywood is stronger so wouldnt need to be 2inchs???

    im still learning and ive read alot of your post and you are one of the ones i would definitely want advice on glass from.
     
  2. furious cub
    Joined: Jan 2013
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    furious cub Junior Member

    I ment that ill change to a lighter glass to make corners easier.
     
  3. rxcomposite
    Joined: Jan 2005
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    rxcomposite Senior Member

    The trick with the heavy biax is to overlay a 2" wide strip of light CSM (300 grs/m2) over the edges to prevent it from lifting up. Otherwise you will have to sand this buggers and slivers down before laying up the next layer.

    You cannot use the 1200 grams on the stringers. It will not drape well. Also on tight corners like stem or transom edges. Terminate the heavy biax on the corners and substitute several layers of light biax or bias cut WR. Overlap by 2". Make sure your total substitute layer has the same fiber orientation and weight of the heavy biax.

    Anyway, as a rule, corners, chine, stem, and keel needs approximately 1.5X the thickness of the base laminate.
     
  4. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    Overlaps and the placement of joins is really important

    Anyway, as a rule, corners, chine, stem, and keel needs approximately 1.5X the thickness of the base laminate.

    As has just been said ,during the constriction of any boats these places are where overlaps for the sides to the bottom and one side to the other should all meet and then you get double the thickness specially in the keel !! the width of the overlaps in these places need to be carefully taken care of as well a total of 400mm wide in the keel (200mm each side )and 100 up and 100 mm down in the chines is what should be normal on any sized boat !! big or small !!
    1.5 times should be your minimum to think about !!double is better :D
     
  5. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    SamSam Senior Member

    Plywood is weaker than the same size/thickness of board.
     

  6. furious cub
    Joined: Jan 2013
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    Location: australia

    furious cub Junior Member

    Ok thanks for the info guys. I shall make sure i beef up the keel a bit more. Is 2inch keel and 1.5 chines ok??
     
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