The game is afoot

Thanks Tad that should keep me amused for a while.

I'll post some picts soon as I get something in the air

cheers
B

 

oh hey

what grade of plywood am I using on those bulkheads

 

The best you can lay hands on...... ......Actually you could laminate them of double diagonal red cedar or similar.......

And think about how you want to fasten the bulkheads into the boat....two choices.....add a solid or laminated cleat all around the edge to increase bonding surface onto the inside layer of hull planking (this offers the option of additional mechanical fastenings through the planking as well).....or you can just fillet and tape (with epoxy) the plywood directly to the skin.......

 

cool lofting gives me plenty to do for now but eventually I'll need to know if three layers 7/32 each cedar is good enough (two would be even lighter but more is better ) , and I'm thinking both an exterior and interior border of steam bent hardwood ( say 1" by 1") kinda like a TJI where the interior cuts out.

what kinda glue am I using
any chance I can get away with Guzzwells approach or am I "stuck" with epoxy for everything

thanks
B

 

B....

I would go with the so called New Zealand method.....Titebond for lamination and then seal with epoxy....minimum 3 coats inside and epoxy/glass outside.....I'll look at the planking thickness in a bit, get the outside lines lofted now....

A bit crazy here as we're hauling our big boat on the ways this afternoon.....going to change as many planks as we can in 5 days.......1.75" fir fastened with 4" spikes to double sawn yellow cedar frames.....real labour.......

 

Tad any chance for photos on that work? ---Geo.

 

tell me that space forward is still a usable area what with all these bulkheads going through it

I'm off to go buy some battens and brush up on my lofting skills ( last I lofted anything it was a cupola roof and not nearly as complex as this ) very stoked to get rolling

 

Would there be any advantage to putting glass between each layer? I've been wondering about that for my future build.

Damn, I wish I was closer, I'd love to come help with that.

 

Good luck with the adventure Bos: and I think your tow vehicle in the first post is real classy.

 

ya know that would be pretty cool but no, thats a Rolls and a bit out of my league. I just pictured it so everyone could get a peek at the kinda style I want for the Bimini

my first move will be to frame up a simple lofting floor
12 sheets of half inch
24 12 footers
4 16 footers
floor ends up 12x32
and slice up some battens of various sizes

I'm taking another load of crap over there tomorrow so I'm stoked to get something going

The boats not going to live in the water and I was hoping for a wood finish. Another reason I went with primarily walnut and cherry cause they compliment one another so well, that and they will contrast the bronze work really well. My buddy has a complete metal forge set up and I have a small one for shoeing which I don't do much of anymore. I've melted my share of metal, just never tried to poor it into anything before. Should be fun. been daydreaming about this forever and I'm really stoked.


anyway one step at a time
I got some drawing to do and Tads got some pine to play with.

cheers
B

I think I will try and put together from all this mosh of information a short design brief
might prevent any of that backtracking mentioned earlier
nothing worse than pulling stuff back apart

 

Ok been doing some homework on these lines so I might not struggle to much when it comes to the full size versions

my prints leave a lot to be desired and there's a bit of "creative interpretation" involved cause they're so hard to read ( poor resolution )

check out what I've got to work with and try reading some of the numbers on that lines plan,


and



the hard ones are the diagonals which I think start at WL1 and angle down at a 45° or 2' off the base line and angle up, but the dimension on the print is really blurry, also the stem area, again not much help on the drawings ( way to blurry ) so it looks like I'll have to develop those on my own. Anyway I thought you guys would get a bang out of what I've got to work with.

looking through a jewelers lens it looks like that water line is 2' 6" 1/8 off the base line and the stem head is at 6'4"if

the measurements for the raised sheer line transition is kicking my *** as well as the entire stem area ( again way to blurry to read off the print ) but I'll figure it out eventually

 

The offsets look clear enough, develop your own lines drawing and measure from that. In fact you could plug those offsets into one of several free programs and it'll spit out a set of lines for you.

 

I can read the offsets but the lines plan has some dimensions on it that aren't on the offsets and are really hard to read. Like the water line height above baseline

I think I can figure it out but it would be interesting to try one of those programs your talking about

the only part I think I'll have much of a brain ache over is the transom and this is a pretty easy transom ( its only curved in one direction ) so I should be ok.

hey got any links to those programs and are they mac compatible

 

I know it can be done in Freeship, and I could PROBABLY do it, but the thought makes my head hurt!

EDIT: Damn you, Boston, now you've got me thinking about it!

OK, question for those of you more versed in this than I. For this to work we need to define a set of points in three axis. What I've trying to figure out is do the but 1,2,and 3 correspond to the WL 1,2,and 3? I.e., for a given frame does but 1 and WL1 both refer to the same point on the hull? If so, I can probably sink the next few hours of my life into this.

More questions. Might as well learn something from this...

What is the fairbody and what does it relate to? It's defined as a height, but is there a corresponding bredth? Do the fairbody and LWL define a set of points? I understand the keel bottom as centerline height about baseline, but what is the Rabbet and what does it define?

 

OK, I'm learning

I've got the raised sheer, sheer, chine and LWL defined in Freeship and am slowly working my way down the hull.

A couple of questions though...

I figured out (I think) what the buttocks and waterlines refer to, but can these be defined as points on the hull and if so, how? I guess what's messing me up here is that if I define a line of points in the mesh with the buttock numbers the line will cross the other lines. Is it better to add additional points between existing points to define these locations and not worry about the lines?

Can anyone discern from the plans what the distances from centerline for buttocks 1,2,and 3 are as well as heights above baseline for the waterlines? I see that it says the waterlines are spaced 9" apart, but starting where?

Near as I can tell, the rabbet is the outside width of the keel and the fairbody is the height at which it connects to the hull. Is this correct?