SUPERTHERM multiceramics coating - anyone ever used it?

Discussion in 'Metal Boat Building' started by WHIZBANG, Jan 31, 2007.

    Joined: Jan 2007
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    Location: Buffalo

    WHIZBANG New Member

    SUPERTHERM multiceramics coating []
    makes astounding claims:

    "SUPER THERM equals an insulation value of R-10 (refers only to inside wall conduction ability because the extent of the coatings' radiant ability is not fully used.) The R-10 equivalency is a minimum in keeping heat or cold inside a room) or equal to 6 - 8 inches of batt insulation on controlling conduction. Its heat reflective ability on a metal surface facing the sun will provide an equivalent range of RI9-R28. SUPER THERM outperformed one inch of Styrofoam board, one inch of polyurethane foam, and all other reflective coatings in an insulation test on metal roofing conducted at the University of California at Davis. It outperformed 4 inches of polyfoam equal to R28 in Japan. "
    "SUPER THERM controls cold and heat from traveling through it providing a controlled zone that avoids conditions conducive to condensation."
    "The coating will last a minimum of 25 years, and we expect 30-40 years."

    It seems to me if half of this were true, every steel boat on earth would be painted with this stuff!!!!
    They claim its been used around the world for years but us wacky Americans are resistive to change.
    Does anyone know anyone who tried this stuff???????????
  2. alaskatrawler

    alaskatrawler Previous Member

    Best thing to do in my view is buy a small amount and experiment with it. See how it goes on etc. Test it. It does sound really great though. I would be interested in how it is as a hot pipe coating they say 600 mils would lower the temp say of an engine exhaust pipe from 700 to 200 deg.

  3. mastcolin
    Joined: Jun 2005
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    Location: The Netherlands

    mastcolin Senior Member

    I've used something similar. It was called delta T or something. We used it on interior aluminum superstructure of 70m yacht.

    It was used beneath the standard rock wool type insulation to try to lessen condensation on interior (it can soak into rockwool and begins to smell musty after time).

    The stuff we used was a nightmare to spray. You had to put on 400microns (16mil.) by high powered airless (50:1). It ate the pump (tips, piston, seals, everything) due to the ceramic stuff being so abrasive we presumed. It was expensive, you needed loads (our stuff was water based so not that high solids), it would be extra weight.

    As some one who has worked in paint manufacture there are loads of great technologies out there unused for a variety of reasons - some are just conservatism, and boating is one of worst for this. To be fair, "if it ain't bust; don't fix it" is a motto you you should keep close to your heart.

    Of course financial issues are normally main reason.

    ps my faves in the labs were thermo reflective paint as used on aircraft and pilots helmets - that was cool:) . And the 3 part fluronated polyurethane topcoat that after 8years Florida exposure lost about 2% gloss. This was deemed 'unsuitable' as the initial gloss was slightly low! ie a few %. Go figure. Awlgrip may start "wet"look but has "undercoat" look after 8years.
  4. alaskatrawler

    alaskatrawler Previous Member

    I have done my share of painting using both awl grip and sterling and think awl grip is great paint. The fairing compound is very first rate stuff. I feel that paint of any kind especially in the marine enviroment will show its age after 8 years. Tropics are very hard on paint. Here in the Nw paint finshes weather quite slowly. I have buffed out 8+ years old awl grip that had never been clear coated to its original mirror shine. Reds and blues suffer the worse while the light colors do best. Also it is advisable if you are doing a new paint finish to clearcoat it this in itself will add years of that high end wax look.

  5. RCardozo
    Joined: Oct 2006
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    Location: Columbia, Maryland

    RCardozo RCardozo

    I am looking at the stuff as well and have the same question. I am asking them for testimonials.

  6. tsimshianman
    Joined: Mar 2008
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    Location: Canada

    tsimshianman New Member


    I stumbled accross this discussion by accident and will offer my expertise with SUPERTHERM and other ceramic insulation coatings since no one has answered some of the questions on this thread. I work with a distributor here called Eagle Specialized Coatings in Canada for the past 7 years where we provide product on a regular basis to Vancouver Shipyards and some yacht manufacturers with steel, alluminum or fiberglass hulls.

    Once you understand how the ceramics work you would then determine where best to use one of several multi-ceramic coatings. They are each designed for specific applications. For example SUPER THERM is often used to insulate the interior surface of steel tugboats at Vancouver Shipyards in part to prevent condensation. On yet another ship project the HOT PIPE COATING was used to insulate exhaust stacks to eliminate heat load in areas adjacent to passenger cabins. This coating is designed to reduce backside conduction. Simply put, nothing works better to control heat transfer than ceramics.

    My best advice for any product especially newer technology is to review the testing and certifications. There are several knockoffs out there that make similar claims but when asked for their testing they cannot produce them.
    For your purposes specifically in the marine industry you may look for DNV certification as well as ,ASTM, Factory Mutual, IMO (International Maritime Organization), and Marine Safety Council.

    Here is another link for an entire list of testing and certifications for this product: CERTIFICATIONS

    There are a few marine examples here : PROJECT PICTURES

    In terms of application issues discussed here there have never been any issues using this product as long as one reads the instructions. If you are spraying obviously you need to keep in mind you are pushing ceramics therefore proper industrial spray equipment is required. Spraying requires a steel carbon tip of sizes .028-.032 tip ( remove all filters from spray equipment before using ) GrecoTexspray is commonly used.
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