stitch and glue beginner

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by Jacques Stander, Apr 1, 2019.

  1. Jacques Stander
    Joined: Apr 2019
    Posts: 2
    Likes: 0, Points: 1
    Location: Durban

    Jacques Stander New Member

    Hi All,

    After a camping trip to a local dam, my son and I decided we would like to try and build a small dinghy that can be rowed or sailed, from ply using the glue and stitch method. I found the plans for a small boat that will work perfect for this project and I’m comfortable with the process, but need some guidance as to the products available in South Africa that could be used.


    For example, what is the best (or good and cheapest) Epoxy Resin and Epoxy Resin Filler i can use as both the Epoxy Glue and to Fill the gaps?


    Thanks in advance,

    Jacques
     
  2. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
    Posts: 788
    Likes: 149, Points: 43
    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Jacques

    Welcome to the forum.

    I'm not on your continent, so I can't comment about available brands or prices.

    Search this forum for "plywood boil tests". They are tests you can do in a home kitchen to determine the potential longevity of plywood in a marine environment.

    Most epoxys would be adequate for your project. Some would be superior in one way or another.

    The genetic term for the two types of epoxy additives you will need are:
    Fumed silica - heavy strong thickener used in fillets
    Micro balloons - lightweight thickened used to make easier sanding fairing compound.
    I would be surprised if you used more than 5 kilos of each.

    Enjoy the building and using with your boy.
     
  3. Rurudyne
    Joined: Mar 2014
    Posts: 1,145
    Likes: 33, Points: 48, Legacy Rep: 155
    Location: North Texas

    Rurudyne Senior Member

    If you search hereabouts you can find build threads with lots of good tips.

    For instance, IIRC, using sheet Mylar over your glass or what have you that you've placed over your plywood and rolling it down well with a squeegee. This compacts these layers and once cured the Mylar pulls away easily leaving a surface much closer to finished ... so sanding is reduced a lot. Since you're not sanding as much away I think they said it meant you could start with less materials ... though I don't think how much "less" was ever qualified.

    Another epoxy idea was by a fellow building a Bolger design. He added (again, if I recall correctly) small amounts of powered aluminum to the epoxy which made it easier to see where it had been applied and would also be easy to see later when paint was wearing away. Or such were his claims.

    Oh! One thread you need to find involves building a micro sail boat in SA. That guy probably knows a bunch abount what's available.
     
  4. Jacques Stander
    Joined: Apr 2019
    Posts: 2
    Likes: 0, Points: 1
    Location: Durban

    Jacques Stander New Member

    Thank you all, i did some researched on the net and found a local company that stocks all the products i will require, hopefully it won't break the bank...
     

  5. rwatson
    Joined: Aug 2007
    Posts: 5,852
    Likes: 288, Points: 83, Legacy Rep: 1749
    Location: Tasmania,Australia

    rwatson Senior Member

    Just a little hint. Some books tell you to use cable ties or other flexible fasteners to hold the pieces together prior to glassing.

    I have found it better to use some flexible wire, like the stuff you buy to tie up plants etc. Sometimes you will need to put some positive pressure (pushing instead of pulling) on parts of the panel, which you can't do easily without something a bit stiffer than cable ties.

    Sam Devlin also had a great idea that worked for me. When butting the panels up to each other, it helps to have a slight chamfer or bevel on the two inside edges of the plywood. It makes lining the panels up easier than if you have to balance them on two quite "sharp" edges. eg.

    About 12 minutes into this video
     
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