Sealing with Silicone?

Discussion in 'Powerboats' started by Ok J, May 19, 2005.

  1. Ok J
    Joined: Apr 2005
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    Location: Kelowna BC Canada

    Ok J Ok J

    As I have completed the top of my boat and plan to assemble as much as possible before mating it with the hull, (all fiberglass) I need to know what the differences are in the different types of sealants I should use for deck hardware etc. Are there different grades of silicone? And as I reattach the windshield assembly (aluminum frame) what type of gasket material should I use?

    Thanks to all that answer.

    -Ok J
     
  2. Sander Rave
    Joined: May 2005
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    Sander Rave Senior Member

    Don't use Silicone for your boat, it won't last.
     
  3. Ok J
    Joined: Apr 2005
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    Ok J Ok J

    My boat had silicone around the rub rail (top and bottom) from the factory when it was built 26 years ago and was in good shape when I disassembled it, there must be good materials out there! I work in the autobody industry and we stay away from silicone sealants for contamination reasons, I have been told that there are varying grades of silicone, and there must be if the original stuff on my old boat lasted 26 years. Any help out there?
    Cheers...Ok J
     
  4. Ok J
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    Ok J Ok J

    Is the only difference between regular silicone and marine grade the anti mildew additive? UV protection? Hmmm.
     
  5. cyclops
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    cyclops Senior Member

    My only chemical caution is that the vinegar smell of it is Acetic acid. Be very selective on which bare metals you put it on.
     
  6. PowerTech
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    PowerTech Senior Member

    3M 5200 nuff said
     
  7. cyclops
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    cyclops Senior Member

    How easy is 3M to remove after a full cure?
     
  8. PowerTech
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    PowerTech Senior Member

    easy to remove and 5200 do not belong in the same sentance
     
  9. cyclops
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    cyclops Senior Member

    Do a search on this site of-- 3M 5200 remove-- keep in mind how large of a area you may have to pull up again.
     
  10. PowerTech
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    PowerTech Senior Member

    I did do the search.And it sounds like that debond 2000 is some mean stuff I am going to check that out.I use clear black or white regular old silicone like life caluk or any cheap thing I can grab likr GE or whatever on crap that doesent mater and will need removal like gauges and other B.S..But below the water line it is 52 all the way and the crap it the red tube is where it's at.
     
  11. Ok J
    Joined: Apr 2005
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    Ok J Ok J

    After all the work rebuilding the transom, stringers, floor etc. I just don't want to have any issues with sealing, especially thru the transom, this has been alot of work, the boat will never see the salt chuck although this is likely not an issue. If 3m 5200 is the stuff to use...cool, they have alot of great materials.
    -Thx...Ok J
     
  12. yokebutt
    Joined: Aug 2004
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    yokebutt Boatbuilder

    I prefer sikaflex, it's got a thicker consistency and doesn't sag as much.

    Yokebutt.
     
  13. FAST FRED
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big d

    FAST FRED Senior Member

    "I just don't want to have any issues with sealing, especially thru the transom, '

    Any penitrations thru the hull or transom should be sealed with an epoxy.

    EG cut the hole and paint the raw edges with West , or your favorite brand of 2 part.

    Then its your choice of what to bed whatever goes thru the hole to the boat.

    3M makes a 101 bedding compound that is removable.

    For a properly prepared hull I prefer good pod fashoned Dolphinite, seals great yet it will easily come apart when needed. Good for thru hulls that need to be inspected and other things that require replacement.

    5200 is almost forever , think of it as a great GLUE , not for replacable items.

    FAST FRED
     
  14. Corpus Skipper
    Joined: Oct 2003
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    Corpus Skipper Hopeless Boataholic

    3M 4000 is great stuff, and stays pliable. Mildew resistant and UV stable. I still go 5200 all the way below the waterline. A thin sharp knife will cut the stuff for separating parts.
     

  15. Ok J
    Joined: Apr 2005
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    Ok J Ok J

    Thanks boys, your help is appreciated, the way things are going my boat will float to the next millenium!
    Cheers.
    Ok J
     
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