Sealing and Painting

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by Aubs73, Oct 13, 2013.

  1. Aubs73
    Joined: Oct 2013
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    Aubs73 New Member

    Time for an absolute beginner to ask some questions you have all probably answered a thousand times. Its just that there are so many different option etc out there. I got the boat 2 months ago and have started a full restoration.

    Boat: 1974 Pongrass Aquarius
    Builder: First time builder

    I removed everything to bring it back to a bare hull. Removed the sole and replaced the stringers. Sole is 12mm marine ply. I will be sealing around the edge of the new sole with 100mm fibreglass roll with resin.
    Once sealed i will be putting marine carpet down.

    First question: Before i put the carpet down, what is best to seal the new marine ply floor. I want to ensure i get as many years out of this new sole as i can before it ends up like the last one.

    Paint: I am in the process of filling all the holes and scratches, and removing the flaking paint. I have been sanding, sanding, and a little more sanding. Should I, use a primer filler, followed by single pack undercoat, then single pack top coat x 3.

    That should be enough to get the ball rolling... Hoping to draw from all the knowledge on this page.

    Attached Files:

  2. Ike
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    Ike Senior Member

    sole: epoxy and glass

    someone else can tackle the paint
  3. alan white
    Joined: Mar 2007
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    alan white Senior Member

    No glass needed especially if you are carpeting. Several coats of epoxy both under and over to totally encapsulate the plywood. Paint isn't necessary if the epoxy is covered from sunlight.
    There are a few options for paint. One part poly, two part poly, porch and deck enamel, Rustoleum, and more. A typical used boat that will never be a gold plater is best painted with something practical, if not the most glossy and durable.
    Brush or spray. You can do a great job by having a friend roll out an area and you "tip" it with a brush. All the paints can be done this way but especially the faster drying ones like one-part polyurethanes.
  4. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I love carpeting in boats over plywood soles. This design feature has supplied me with a career of guaranteed sole replacements. This is especially true if the sole is polyester coated/sheathed. If epoxy coated, the carpet will eventually cut through the coating and, yep, you'll be around to see me or someone like me. If the sole is epoxied and alos sheathed with at least 200 GSM (6 ounce) cloth, then you have a good chance of beating me and a durable carpet covered sole, assuming it's very well bonded down (usually isn't).

    Carpeting does a few things. First of all it's rough and this will grind through most coatings, even epoxy in time. Carpet is often not well adhered, so it moves around, scuffing and cutting away at what's below it. It's also not UV resistant, typically letting UV right through, baking the substrate, so epoxy needs protection. Lastly, it tends to trap moisture between it and what's below it, so eventually, you have an issue, typically preceded by mold, mildew and that squishy feeling I love, when inspecting a prospective new project.

    If you're going to put down carpet (or whatever), skin the sole with at least 6 ounce (200 GSM) cloth, set in epoxy, then paint it with a good quality, high solid content paint, before gluing down whatever.
  5. michael pierzga
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    michael pierzga Senior Member

    Rubber decking, the kind used in kitchens and public space is superior to carpet. Waterproof, good traction, good looks and it does a good job protecting the substrate.

    Visit a flooring shop and see if they have anything appropriate
  6. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Truck bed liner is the best thing I've seen, that can be applied.
  7. adam.j.todd
    Joined: Feb 2017
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    adam.j.todd New Member

    The best way, if you want it to last, is:
    Treat both sides of your sole with epoxy resin.
    The ply will absorb a fair amount of your first coat. This coat is a sealer.
    Fibregassing on the first coat can result in the timber wicking away the resin between the timber and the glass. This will mean you will have a dry join, and glass will de-laminate.
    When sealer coat is set, scuff and re-coat underside with resin and glass. Let it set again, trim, dry fit and re-coat your edges.
    Now fit floor and cover in fibreglass with 100mm overlap on edges.

    If you use epoxy, you will have to stick with epoxy systems for painting as well.
    The alternative is to use vinyl ester resin, which is waterproof, but allows you to use polyester, vinyl, or epoxy systems over top. This can be useful if you are doing future fitout work and want to tie into the sole with final stuffing around.
  8. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Welcome to the forum. This is a 4 year old thread.

    You don't have to wait until the first or second coat of epoxy are dry, before applying fabric or subsequent coatings.

    You don't have to stick to "epoxy systems" for painting, if using epoxy.

    You can use both polyester and vinylester over epoxy, including gelcoat. The bonds are very similar, with mechanical bonds over epoxy being slightly better than vinylester and moderately better than polyester (including gelcoat).
  9. Mr Efficiency
    Joined: Oct 2010
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    Putting epoxy resin into an old tub with little value like the subject matter here, is not that great an idea. There are few boats that old that are worth the expense and time involved.

  10. Scot McPherson
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    Scot McPherson Senior Member

    it depends on the boat. My carl alberg seasprite 23 in my estimation is worth the extra expense, love and care. These boats when in truly good condition still sell for $15,000+. They are old, they are solid (thick fiberglass), and there are still seasprite racing clubs all over New England at least. In my estimation, it's one of the best in size boats you can get, and should be either preserved, or duplicated if one could get or buy the license to produce them.
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