Scarf Joint

Fwiw. The standard 7-14" Skilsaw cuts only about 2-3/8". I built a school in California and all the studs were 3X6s (2-1/2") and our regular saws couldn't cut it (pun intended). We all had to get the 8-1/4" ones.
Also....That Big Makita will only cut about 6-1/4". It really is underpowered at full depth and will stall out if you aren't in perfect alignment and with that big blade it's easy to do. Our wimpy 120 volt juice in the US just can't supply the amps. I had one. It ain't for amateurs.
Skil used to make and Bigfoot still does make a 10-1'4" saw with a 3-3/4" cut depth. These are more practical than the big Makita and used for about $225 or so. They are great saws.
What you really want are those German made Mafell saws. 230 volt and all the power you need for only $4000. All the timberframers use these.
I have been a carpenter/cabinet builder/contractor for about 40 years. I know my saws.

 

unfortunately there is no info in web site,have you any info for other resins?

 

Yes there is, download their MDS and physical properties PDF's.

 

i could not find it, do you have link address of it?

 

manufacturer of Araldite adhesives is Huntsman Advanced Materials; if you Google the name you will find their web site with links to MDS's and other information. They have a lot to learn about user-friendly web sites, however.

 

thanks allot
i search in huntsman web site but i did'net find any thing about better time to assembly,perhaps it is experimental and no advise is available for it?
here is its link.
www.huntsmanservice.com/WebFolder/u...S/Long/Araldite_LY5052-1_Aradur_5052-1_us.pdf
what is your opinion?

 

Alfred, epoxy pot life, gel rates and cure times are listed, but these, as with all epoxies, can vary with environmental conditions. Colder temperatures will slow the times down, while higher temperatures will speed up the reaction times. Some familiarity with the epoxy system you're employing is necessary or controlling the environment, so you can get predictable results will be necessary for repeatable cure times.

 

I contacted the huntsman company and they told me that it is not depended on adhesive type, and this may be an experimental work. at this step of your work(if done until now) what do you do?what day after curing laminates assembly them?

 

I'm not sure what your questions are, but it might help to provide the environment conditions, you're attempting laminate within. What's the usual temperature and humidity in your shop during the process?

 

If I was joining wood of that size I would mix up epoxy then put a coat on both surfaces. I would then let the yet unsused epoxy harden a little to the thickness I want with out any filling. Then when ready ladle a second coat of the thickening epoxy on both surfaces again and clamp up.

It allows the thinner epoxy to soak in a bit more

 

Waiting for epoxy to gel would be a foolish thing to do, if you expect reliably strong bonds.

 

Well I was just passing on some advice from a foolish olde boat builder in the yard, Australian he was actually. He always let it thicken a while before using --obviously very foolish.
But I did'nt say gel ---did I-- I just said thicken,--- sorry for posting.

 

No need to apologize for the post Frosty, but when the goo starts to thicken, it's beginning to gel.

 

Epoxy starts to thicken the second you mix it. Waiting for half an hour gives a slightly thicker mix ---slightly-- Its a skill I would have thought you would have known about and saves goo running out on the floor .

However I did say that you put on the new mix to the faces first before thickening. Additional thicker epoxy will bond to that.

 

Applying epoxy to a joint once it's visibly thickened will break molecular cross-links already formed and reduce working time. Unless the joint is very small the epoxy will thicken further during the work and may not flow and fill joint irregularities as well as a fresh, thixotropically stabilized mix. Cross-linkage will be less efficient across the interface between the first coat and the added mix.

Sounds risky and time-consuming. Why not just use the proper additive after pre-coating and apply the thickened epoxy while still fresh? The additive will add strength and reduce brittleness.