Rust removal

he says labour is cheap half a dozen of those going and soon have it done......and we carnt all have big tools.....

 

Actually last time I did something like that, I sandblasted it myself and an assistant. Lousy work. My assistant was smaller than me and could get into smaller compartments. He kept getting shocked. Learn later there was a company that for $800 a day would Soda blast it. You have to provide access but the can do inside and outside of boat in two days. They used a big truck mounted unit and they recycle material. Never used it but I think it would be well worth it. Then you just have to follow with a paint can.

 

Labour is not cheap in Estonia!

Though cheaper than in Finland, one cannot compare Estonia with Bulgaria or even Turkey.

And there is definetively no way around blasting. period

Have you ever used a (dozen at least) needle gun on a entire boat pistn. ?

When there is a way to save money, it is to blast and primer the vessel in Tallinn by pro´s. Which they have there at decent rates.

If that is not in the budget, forget about the entire project! Not worth talking.
How would one afford OP cost and core expenses when the pennies for blasting hurt?

And stop that dumb drivel about rust converting paint! It does not exist. period
Even a top quality paint job (which can cost another 100k€ on such boat) will fail within less than one year, when done on top of such ****. We are talking boat, not garden bank.

Regards
Richard

 

I've been reading this thread but declined to comment earlier, because there is no sense simply repeating what Richard has advised. I do want to point out, however, that I have used POR-15 when restoring old cars - with good results - but wouldn't use it on any marine vessel. As well, needle guns are great when you need to get into a corner where a 4.5" or 5" grinder won't go & there is too much area to cover for a die grinder, but it would take you a lifetime to do an entire boat/ship/etc that way & you'd end up with bilateral epicondylitis(tennis elbow, both sides) - trust me, I have it permanently - long before the job was done! Blast it, replace the bad areas and prime & paint it. There are no short cuts/cheaper alternatives.
Mike

 

We used "Fertan" and hot wax on top of that, in the hollow structures. But cars are not boats.

Richard

 

...please, if you cannot afford to sandblast the steel, what hope is ther of even buying the egine....just forget the deal mate, the costs will be enormous, and what will it be worth after all this effort.

Unless the vessel is exceptionally well constructed, is of the design that you are looking for and suits your purposed use, and YOU CAN AFFORD it, then FORGET IT.....

.......there is no protective coating made (yet) that will do the job without sandblasting to SA 2 1/2 minimum....forget all the stories and advertising...use your brains, if it was that easy to slop POR or anything else over rust, why are there so many rusted vessels floating around....

 

I had good result with black varnish, but the steel should be well cleaned of any oily material. It is not a rust removal, more a rust protector.
The drying time is very slow. But it leave a nice surface. Several coat can be necessary.
My two cents
Daniel