Rubbing out the Nibs in Awlgrip

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by TripleCrownNC, Apr 29, 2008.

  1. TripleCrownNC
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    TripleCrownNC Junior Member

    I have been rolling and tipping Awlgrip topcoat. I have nibs in the finish after curing, is there a preferred method for rubbing these out? Is it possible I have another issue going on, I have a perfectly smooth surface after painting but not after curing. Thanks,
     
  2. the1much
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    the1much hippie dreams

  3. TripleCrownNC
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    TripleCrownNC Junior Member

    The surface has tiny bumps in it like a single piece of sand across it. They sand smooth if you were prepping for another coat.
     
  4. Landlubber
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    Landlubber Senior Member

    It could be dust from the air or dust left before painting, are you using a tack cloth just before you apply the paint?
     
  5. the1much
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    the1much hippie dreams

    L.L. is on the right track,,,,,sounds like ya got dust in it,,,unless "snailing" it a certain way causes air bubbles,,I've never "snailed" thats why i said to ask Kapt. or someone thats rolled.How many days after painting do they show up?
     
  6. TripleCrownNC
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    TripleCrownNC Junior Member

    I mixed some paint and ran it through a paint screen and there are small nibs in there, I think its in the paint, or something is going on when I mix it.

    I do not think its dust, closed up and still air, you see these things a little after 30 min (still very wet) and much more the next morning after mostly cured.

    Yes I am using a tac rag.

    Doesn't Kapt check here? That thread you refered me too looks a little off topic!
     
  7. the1much
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    the1much hippie dreams

    isnt that thread called "the Awl-Grip knowledge" thread?,,,its jus that a dude went off topic.,,,but its ALL about awl-grip.and he's subscribed to that thread,, so he'll get an email when ya post and ask,,,,he's been bizy lately, so might not check new threads as often.,,if he doesnt answer ya i'll email him fer ya. when the paint is strained, and you got those "nibs" left,,,,,,squish em,,,if they squish and have color to em,,,,,its your paint,,,either your not mixing ( shaker) right,,,or that batch got some bad dye. either 1 will look like sand and crud,,,till ya squish em and ya see its a shade or 8 off from ya paint color.
     
  8. TripleCrownNC
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    TripleCrownNC Junior Member

    I sanded a piece that has this uneven surface, it sanded smooth very easy. I made up some more topcoat, ran it through a strainer. I really didn't see all that much in the strainer. I tried to clean the piece with awgrip cleaner and the the top turned instantly tacky. I let it sit about 30 minutes and was no longer tacky. I hit it with more top coat and the surface again got these nibs or like someone sprinkled salt on it.

    I now think the 545 is not fully cured for some reason and is reacting with the topcoat. What I saw in the strainer in my earlier post was some particulate but is not close to the amount I see after I put on top coat.

    Since I have never used awlgrip I do not know what things are supposed to be like. The new can of 545 was like clay with liquid on top when I first opened it. It took me at least 15 minutes of stirring to get it to smooth out.
     
  9. the1much
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    the1much hippie dreams

    hmmmm,,,how clean is ya environment?,,,and ALL paints (primers) will settle,,but that 15 minutes of hand stirring aint even close to enough,,,,double it,,,,did you just buy the paint ,,or , do you know how old it is?and use ya finger nail and scratch ya 545,,,does it peel,slide,or just make a mark in it?,,,and to get a reaction from ya 545 and ya top coat,,,it would almost have to be wet (545) to do that.
    and DONT clean ya piece with ANYTHING other then denatured alcohol,,or filtered water,,,,< and i dont care what awl-grip says,,,we've had the discussion MANY times hehe>
    and then theres a certain way to do it so not to leave swipe marks.,,,,,how long has your 545 been curing,,and whats ya temps?.
     
  10. TripleCrownNC
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    TripleCrownNC Junior Member

    The 545 is new, just orderd it from Jamestown. My temps are about 70 and dry. By the 15 minute stir, I mean that long so I got rid of most of the clumped clay stuff at the bottom. I stirred more.

    I can tell you this about reacting. Earlier in the project I had some pieces I was priming, some pieces I started to top coat. I made up and did my top coat. Wiped out the roller tray then poured in the 545 that had been going through induction in a painters pail. The second I poured that 545 in the pan that had a tad bit of top coat in it, it instantly clumped up and was all ruined.

    The 545 had cured at least 24 hrs. I just checked some panels that only have 545 on them, figernail slides. Buts its been on there for days.

    Same paint that I put on the panel tonight and reacted looks smooth on foil.
     
  11. the1much
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    the1much hippie dreams

    24 hours aint long enough,,,if ya "snailing" i think Kapt. says to triple or more the curing time.and you guys have had a CRAP load of humidity,,(hows them late snow storms hehe),,so ya really need to wait a week for proper curing,,,and YA,,,545 paint and top coat dont mix well,,,is like mixing globby oil and water hehe ;)
     
  12. TripleCrownNC
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    TripleCrownNC Junior Member

    That may be it, I read everything I could get my hands on including the awlgrip tech manual and there is nothing in there about waiting that long, says 12-24 hours.

    Bummen
     
  13. the1much
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    the1much hippie dreams

    ya,,,their full of crap ,,,,as usual hehe ;)
     
  14. Kaptin-Jer
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    Kaptin-Jer Semi-Pro

    O.k. Guys I'm here.:p
    If you found "ribs" (not sure what you mean), but if you found ANYTHING big enough to see then it's in the paint. You need to filter everything as if you are going to spray. Make sure the brush is very clean, no saw dust from hanging up in the garage. Clean, Clean, Clean, Clean, can't be stressed enough. Wash down the hull 3 or 4 times with water and then alcohol.

    You can not rub out, the imperfections. You need to sand and do over. Do not be surprised if you end up with 5 coats. Thats what happened with my last project, but I was also painting Flag Blue. If you are seeing "rib" like lines in the paint after it sets then you need to increase the amount of reducer by @ 5%. The paint should be a water consistency, like auto paint, not house paint. Once you get the feel for the paint it goes on pretty easy.

    In North Carolina this week end you should be about 75-80 degrees a little humid. If you are painting a white and you were showing brush marks (ribs) at 20% reducer which is what Awl Grip says bump it up to 25% - 30 % and if you are a slow painter add 5% to the mix when you are 1/2 finished. Good luck.
     

  15. TripleCrownNC
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    TripleCrownNC Junior Member

    Kapt, I do not think its in the paint as of this moment. What I am seeing is as if a prankster snuck in over night and sprinkled salt on it. Most of what I am doing right now is non skid w/griptex. I do have one lid that has just top coat.

    Its history. 2 coats 545 primer. 2 coats cloud white topcoat with the bumps, sanding them out before each application. Tape the outside edges. Apply blue. Get the bumps over night. Sand it all off, wipe with cleaner, gets very tacky (can make figer prints in it for about a minute, then starts to get hard), bumps all up right when I hit it again with top coat.


    I think something is not cured, maybe the brushing converter is bad??? Was thinking maybe the 545 was not cured but not sure that makes sense in the fact there is several top coat layers on it.
     
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