Retrofit turbine engine to powerboat.

I have a project I am considering:

I have a 1200hp Turbine engine with an outdrive (leg) which I wish to fit onto an existing boat.

The target boat is a Bladerunner 101 sport, currently running 85mph with two 300 Promax X outboard engines. There is a race version which runs 100mph + so the hull design can take top speeds.

The concept is to simply remove the outboard engines, and place the turbine and outdrive into the boat. The weight of the combination is the same withing 50Kg.

Anticipating a new top speed of 120mph based on calculations.

Any input or suggestions would be most welcome. The idea is to produce a version of the Bladerunner which will cruise at over 110mph.

 

It can probably be done, although you'll end up with something rather hairy to handle at the top end. What drive are you using? I don't know of many outdrives that can handle this kind of power.... even Merc won't stand behind their Six drive at this kind of power level. You'll be moving weight forward a bit which will alter the trim of the boat quite a lot. Your target top speed sounds achievable (possibly even a tad low) but there will be a lot of technical hurdles to clear first. You might do well to get in touch with others with similar plans: http://www.turbineboat.com/ for one, or http://www.gas-turbines.com/squirt_2.htm as examples. Good luck.

 

I am relying on the 'prop guys' experiance regarding the drive.

With the bladerunner, you can affect the pitch by playing with the steps on the back of the boat. So hopefully this will not be a problem.

My only real consern is the single prop, and the twist effect it will have on the boat, and the handling differences this may cause.

 

You are totally aware of the fact that ALL turbine engines are the SLOWEST accelerating and deccelerating engines EVER built. You need to know that right now. Dont kid yourself. You can never race or turn with any Piston Engined boat. You will embarass yourself. That is why turbines are never allowed to race with same horsepower piston engines. As a prove you can do it project, do not go for it!! Make sure you have a STRONG steel shield between you and the engine intake. Your engine is probably not built for use in a boat. The rotor blades will flex and snap off if you hit TINY wakes or waves. The intakes can and do come out the front on boats . At best you will get away unhurt.

 

I am an instrument technican that has to work on gas and diesel fired turbines in the oil field. Slow start and slow cool down are what turbines do.
Some come apart by sheding their blades out the sides of the case. They take lots of controls - that is were I come in.
Let us know how it comes out if you live throgh it.

 

It is an ex helicopter engine.

I assume it can take a few bumps?

 

very tricky but i like

 

Nice, I like it!
It's a trimaran?

 

Tricky. Call the engine company. If they say it can take the being tossed upward 1 or 2 feet in a 1/2 of a second. Think about it. Good luck.

 

i wrote arneson bout that, they gave me this racing guy's e-mail adress to discuss it but i never did...
maybe OTTO will tell us?

 

Air Intake needs up most thought, I have seen a couple turbines shed blades because of minor intake air changes at the wrong times. We do water washes at starting rpms but these are very controls situations.

 

interesting that intake water washing
against "twist" be very easy on the clutch i was told
my wandering was actally about a single surface drive's wheeleffect...

 

Yipster has been doing his homework! - Yes, that is my boat, parked outside my house on the Thames in London. This is the boat I hope to convert.....

Several factors:

It weighs 2.5 tons, so has inertia, so no sudden jolts like some smaller boats will have. It is also an air entrapment hull, which also cusions the 'impact' of landing.

It has a very large housing at the rear of the boat which currently contains the twin promax 300 outbords. This will house the air cleansing unit on the finished project. ( the centrifuge )

The boat has scoops at the sides ofthe hull, but indented, so most spray will not actually gain entrance. I may only use the top scoop, built into the radar arch, and use the side scoops as assistance for flushing the water from the centrifuge.

The area behind the 'cabin' is a small 'room' which currently serves no purpose, but which will become the engine room. The clean air from the centrifuge enters the 'engine room' which also helps keep the room cool.

The exhaust will be a double walled tube, exiting through the centre of the centrifuge, with the exhaust being kept cool by water pumped through the two walls, exiting at the top via a tube.

Paddlewheel effect 'should' not be too noticable, as the leg will keep the propellor about 45cm below the waterline. I am not using a surface drive like the arneston, I will use the leg drive ( like the DPX drives on the V24's )

 

Yes.

It has a long thin center hull ( 32 foot ) with two 'tunnels' for air entrapment. The outer 'hulls' are really blade like runners, and are about 1/3 the length of the hull.

She rides completely flat. You can not get the bow 'up' - she is always flay to the sea.

 

Air entrapment is what I am going for with my changes to my commerical fishing boat. I will not have the horsepower to see the true benifits of it but I will use air as much as I can.
What temp do you see the exhaust getting to? I wondering if the water cooling will turn to steam.