Resin choice

if you not sure do one at a time . dont forget to wet the surface under the glass first then lay the cloth and wet it as well , if you undertsand the gel time and the jobs not to big then do the second one straight after . thickness means the resin will get warm ! warmth speeds up the gel time so think !! one at a time if you are not sure and dont scimp on the resin , the glass is no good by itself the resin and glass work together !!!

 

I think if he was exsperianced he wouldnt be asking this question

 

Thanks Guys!! I have used poly in the auto repair shop for years but have never used epoxy until now other than small repairs........thought i would give it a try on the boat.........sounds like it is the same as poly other than no adjustment concerning the cure time/gel.

 

If you check with the makers they possible could help with the hardening times .
its just epoxy after all . !!
Most epoxys have slow, normal, and fast hardeners !! Temprature plays a big part with the hardening and cure of epoxys . Boat repairs warm it then apply !!
No hair driers or could cook it and run every where as its cooking .
Warm as in warm not hot !!the place where its going and the product s.

 

The safe bet is slow hardener. It may take longer to kick off, but this time of year you usually need all the time you can get.

Don't start heating your epoxy unless you have a particular reason for this.

 

I ended up with the extra slow hardner........tried to lam with the slow and decided i needed the extra slow while the heat is 100. Did get the foam in the fuel cell area repaired and the starboard stringer replaced, now have the engine stringers fitted and ready to set in place. The only one left is the port side stringer by the fuel tank, the end where is was nailed to the 1/2 ply that tied the engine stringers together has a little rot, only on the end where nailed.........the h20 checks around 15 to 16 along the bottom of the stringer........not sure to replace or not at this point. Thanks !!

 

15 to 16 is right on the boarder line in regard to what is possible with epoxy. If you're using extra slow, I can assume you're using West System epoxy. Try to dry these areas down to 13% as a minimum. If this is more pain in the butt then it's worth, cut it out and bond in a new piece.

 

Since the H20 was low, thought about cutting off the very end that started to show rot and leave alone since it is only about 2 inch long and about 1 deep. Question, on the bulk head that ties the engine stringer to the fuel cell stringher, should i go ahead and bed with epoxy PB or will i need something with more flex in such as small area.........it is a V shape as the hull and made od 1/2nch ply. Thanks for all the help!!

 

Post a picture so we can see what you're dealing with.

 

Here's a pic before iy was removed, it was taken from the transom looking forward into the cabin between the fuel stringers. Thanks

 

Forgot to say also that in the center of the fuel area floor (in the pic where it looks like two white lines in the tank area) Sea Ray layed a 1/2 ply by 8 inches down the length of the tank floor to create a flat floor. This is to support the tank so it has a large void under it where it meets the piece that ties the stringers together.

 

Epoxy and PB will do fine.

 

heres a pic of the stringer by the fuel tank in question. The H20 checks 11-15 and only shows the spot in the edge. I pulled a 9x9 section of the 1/2 inch ply to look at the 3/4 so that is what you see. should i patch and epoxy or replace.Thanks

 

A patch will be fine.

 

Ready to set the engine stringers today and wondered if I sould bed with epoxy or use something with more flex? The thickeded epoxy is hard as a rock.