Replaced teak deck on my Grand Banks

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by captain head, Dec 5, 2013.

  1. captain head
    Joined: Sep 2013
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    Location: Long Beach, CA

    captain head New Member

    Hello everyone, I'm new to this forum and I have a question for you.

    I want to create a non skid on my new deck that looks like a new glass boat. I do not intend on placing sand and paint.

    I found Flex Mold in TX that sells molds that can be gel coated and placed on the deck. Is there any other source for molds?

    I like a pyramid diamond pattern not too sharp that can be walked on barefooted.

    Thanks in advance.

    My objection is to have the boat look like it came from the factory. Not a dock worker.
  2. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Prep the deck for coating (poly or epoxy), then tape it off for waterways, using care and well radiused corners on everything. This will separate the men from the boys in regard to how it looks. All deck protrusions and things bolted down, should have a waterway around it's perimeter. Also uniformly space the textured areas along the side decks, about the foredeck, etc.

    With the tape down, mask all the waterways, so only the textured areas are exposed. Using the slightly thickened resin of your choice, roll out a uniformly thick coating over all the exposed areas and wait. Depending on your resin choice and environmental conditions, go back over the textured area, just before the goo is in the "green" stage. Using a dry, tight nap roller, evenly roll through the tacky goo, which will raise up on the roller nap, but is so close to kicking off, it can't relax and self level. This will produce a fair rough texture (which is okay). Remove tape from the waterways and other protected areas. Finally, apply an unthickened coat of the same resin over everything. This will soften the sharpness of the texture and seal it down to the substrate. If still too rough, apply another unthickened coat or some light sanding, before another coat. The surface is now ready for a regular paint job, with wll defined and sealed waterways and textured areas.

    Prep is what will make this look like a factory job (always does), so spend a lot of time figuring out the textured areas and radiusing the corners of these areas. If you want to add pigment, do so, which can save a step if using polyester, though epoxy (the better, stronger choice) will need additional UV protection.

    This is the "Cliff's Notes" version . . .
  3. captain head
    Joined: Sep 2013
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    Location: Long Beach, CA

    captain head New Member

    Thanks for the reply. I am using epoxy and two layers of glass cloth over the entire deck. Then when faired I want to place non skid texture similar to what you posted. What I was looking at requires a lot more work than your system. The deck could be done in sections too. I'll do a test board to see what the final texture looks like. I would imagine the nap in the roller would have impact as to texture as well.

    Very interesting system.

    My first thought was buying the Flex Mold and cutting them out to fit the areas I wanted the non skid. Then either spraying gel coat in them or epoxy and when they were almost set up easing them down onto the deck inside the taped off areas making sure not to trap any air. Their molds are male or female and using a female mold in this way makes a finished deck that looks like a factory boat. I am after that look.
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