Repair Help for bloated Tinnie (alum. boat)

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by BrOnZe, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. BrOnZe
    Joined: Jan 2015
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    BrOnZe Junior Member

    Please Help flooded Tinnie float again ,.

    I recently purchased a small runabout of Aluminium.
    Was sitting on a property edge, full of water for ~ 5 years.
    Replaced trailer suspension / blown tyres, yet the boat was still a bit off.

    I have been trying to draw in her sides a bit, as shes held that much water so long.
    Last of a few ideas was to jack the keel from inside, and draw a cable tight under the widest rib, parallel. Just wants to buckle the rib sections, as it is seperated from the floor in some parts.

    Hope that someone has some engineering type knowledge to help my 'low budget' fix, underway ,.

    Technically skilled, BrOnZe
     

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    Last edited: Jan 14, 2015
  2. Ad Hoc
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    Ad Hoc Naval Architect

    Do NOT push or force any of it into place. You'll make matters worse.

    1) Remove the rib, the shape it to suit the new hull shape, then re-weld. If the rib is badly damage, just remake a similar size rib.

    2) For the side, you can grind that all out and re-weld.. If you're unsure place a small backing plate behind for extra strength and to prevent blow through.
     
  3. BrOnZe
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    BrOnZe Junior Member

    The boat has bulged, and the seams are ripped from the inner weight.
    I have shown the picture/s explaining.
    The base has dropped through all ribs, and ripped most bench sides.

    I hope to draw the sides in, by pressing down on keel at the same time.

    Any designs, or sketches would be helpful. Removing the ribs and wouldn't be worth the time,.
     
  4. Ad Hoc
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    Ad Hoc Naval Architect

    As I have just noted. Don't push or force the ally into place. You'll make it worse.

    It sounds like you need to redo all the internal framing to suit the new hull shape, or new plating to suit the internal frame shape.
     
  5. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    It is probably a lost cause, what is it, an old Brooker ?
     
  6. BrOnZe
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    BrOnZe Junior Member

    Not too sure,

    Just need advice. I have equipment to join the metal.
    I have an old boat that can handle a few mallets and still be better off.
    A keel brace is the best thought I have had.

    Blocks to frame shape, stand inside and mallet to wood, down to draw the base to ground.

    Pic may help if you have some sense, ..
     
  7. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    Ad Hoc knows aluminium, if he says don't force it back into shape, I'd be inclined to listen.
     
  8. FAST FRED
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    FAST FRED Senior Member

    Anyone in Florida looking for an Aluminum classic fixer upper ,

    I have a FeatherCraft 14 ft 1956 Ranger for $250 , Ortons FL.

    No trailer ,windshield or controls , but its water tight.

    It has the great tumble home of classics of that era.
     
  9. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    Any boat that has retained a lot of water for years can't be too busted up, if the water won't go from the inside out, sitting out in the weather on a trailer ( I wonder why they left the bung in !) it won't go from the outside in, on the water, presumably.
     
  10. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    You were a salesman in a previous life, Fred ? :p
     
  11. pbekkerh
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    pbekkerh New Member

    If it was steel you could easily fill the gaps by welding over them, I don't know if this is possible with aluminium.
    I guess the shape of the boat is still useable, so you could fill the gap with pieces of aluminium sheet and weld over them.
    Or you cut fabricate some aluminium profiles that fits on the side of the ribs and weld those in, This will also strengthen the ribs, if they have gone soft.

    Bending the ribs back, you would have to over bend slightly but this isn't possible, while they're in the boat. Another problem with aluminium is that it has a finite number of times it can be bent before it breaks. Not like steel that can be bent within certain limits without breaking.
     
  12. BrOnZe
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    BrOnZe Junior Member

    * I want to move the seat sides & floor back in position before welding (TIG).
    * The bottom will slap the ribs in spots where they are gapping. Nice thinner,

    Looking for a fix that I am able to do on a budget, with least effort.
    Not wanting to weld the sides to seats yet. They are is still out of position, as the the bottom reflects the problem.
     
  13. WestVanHan
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    WestVanHan Not a Senior Member

    Be thankful you don't live where is gets cold enough to freeze that water... :) good luck though,it's worth saving.
     
  14. BrOnZe
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    BrOnZe Junior Member

    A Reply to AdHok

    Thank you for the engineering words.
    I have thought to extend the ribs up to the top edge, when finished reshaping.

    A diagram of my next idea to get into shape, if you would care to comment. ?
     

  15. BrOnZe
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    BrOnZe Junior Member

    Shaping preview / shaper. ?

    Guess a few pictures might explain my dilema and the way I know slowly fixy.
     

    Attached Files:

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