Redoing wood floor the proper way round two

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by the brain, Aug 5, 2017.

  1. the brain
    Joined: Sep 2016
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    the brain Senior Member

    Redoing wood floor the proper way round two


    First time around I trusted rustolium they told me marine topsider paint sealed wood they lied.


    Rust-Oleum Paint Marine Topside Coating Alkyd Gloss Sand Beige 1 qt. Ea 207003 | eBay https://www.ebay.com/i/391599253323?chn=ps&dispItem=1




    Wood I used

    Shop Top Choice Blondewood 1/2-in Birch Plywood, Application as 4 x 8 at Lowes.com https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Blondewood-1-2-in-Birch-Plywood-Application-as-4-x-8/50121137


    thinking round two will this use this to seal PW

    Amazon.com : TotalBoat 5:1 Epoxy Kit (Quart, Slow Hardener) : Sports & Outdoors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HR8517A?th=1&psc=1

    ?1.will a quart be enough to cover a full sheet of PW?



    Plan to use same plywood.


    I need to redo two pieces aft. (will start w/ the middle piece) Most then middle (1/2 of middle piece is inside ½ outside)


    Vessel has two longitude stringers w/ a 27” gap in the middle initially the ½” PW had no flex.

    ?2. is it recommended to add latitudalle supports in-between stringers? I’m concidering adding a stringer?


    The original floor seams where joined w/ a 2” aluminum stripe I believe was designed to keep seams tight, not so much for support. Edit vessel was originally built w/ 5/8”PW


    ?3.is ½” PW thick enough?


    First round for middle piece I messed up and covered it w/ spar urethane it didn’t take a couple months and it was rotten (vessel was exposed to rain, now I have a storage rain blocker cover).


    ?4.can I smear a couple coats of this sealer and call it a day? then expect it to last a few years?
    or must I add fiberglass matting to the sealer?


    I will definitely use PW for the middle piece will problley use a big piece of aluminum for aft flooring (which is actualley laying on top of rotten aft PW) then cover the outside piece w/ this

    Amazon.com: DuraGrid Non-Slip 12" x 12" Interlocking Tiles, Pack of 12 Black: Home Improvement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GWCA7LM/ref=asc_df_B00GWCA7LM5108985/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00GWCA7LM&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167125866639&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13830821221495316432&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012826&hvtargid=pla-307349613577


    there’s usalley a good amount of slippery blood and fish slim on aft deck.

    ?5.will the rubber flooring be difficult to clean?


    Plan to secure PW to stringers w/ aluminum revitos.

    Thanks
     

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  2. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    Same reply as on the other forum.

    Several things need to be changed about your plan, but first, what boat do you have?

    Don't use that ply wood, it's not going to hold up outside, use exterior grade product or better.

    If the boat originally had 5/8" ply, you should use it again, The manufacturer isn't going to use a thicker and more expensive ply than needed.

    Any epoxy will work, and coverage can vary a great deal, it all depends on how much is absorbed by the plywood, and it normally takes 3 or more coats to seal out water.

    You don't need to use glass with the epoxy, but it will make it more durable.
     
  3. the brain
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    the brain Senior Member

    prefer not to mention brand name at other site if I do thread will moved to that brand name so only a few will advice.
     
  4. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    The problem is not the paint but the wrong choice in plywood. That will not hold up in humid locations. The first bad result should've convinced you.
     
  5. the brain
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    the brain Senior Member

    please recommend suitable plywood.

    I have a leftover piece of marine ply wood $120. for a sheet, it's been sitting in the rain for over a year and hasn't rotted.
    Thanks TB
     
  6. the brain
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    the brain Senior Member

    the other site dosn't allow images even at 3 posts here you go
     

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  7. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    You need to remove all the plywood, stringers, etc. that are rotted to start with. The marine plywood you refer to would be a good choice, not the interior cabinet birch. If you want to go cheap, an exterior grade will last a few years.
     
  8. the brain
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    the brain Senior Member

    my aluminim vessel dosn't have wooden stringers it has aluminim stringers. I'm not being cheap the marine PW is diffacult to obtain.

    when I redid the transome w/ 3 pieces of wood I had to wait till the ALabama state dept ordered a stack and I was luckie to get a few leftover pieces at $120. a sheet.

    I my have to cruise down to the Gulf lumber store to obtain marine grade.

    I have a leftover piece of marine ply wood $120. for a sheet it laying ontop of the interai birch from lowes's both are bare and have been sitting in the rain for over a year and hasn't rotted like the stuff I have in the vessel.

    besides starboard is there any alternative to wood?
    Thanks TB
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2017
  9. ondarvr
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    Yes, many, but they make Marine ply look cheap. And as already mentioned, you can use exterior grade.
     
  10. tom28571
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    tom28571 Senior Member

    Before you accuse someone of lying, try to determine if you can tell the difference between a lie, a truth and your own mistake.
     
    SamSam likes this.
  11. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    A lot of misunderstood information you've received. There are lots of previous threads here describing what to look for, brands and markings to look at in terms of plywood choices in the marine environment. You've obviously used a cabinet grade plywood, which doesn't have a WBP adhesive, so no amount of anything will prevent it from delaminating on a boat. If selecting an APA plywood grade (American made) there must be a PS1-95 marking on the sheet somewhere. This is the marine/exterior grade and has a WBP adhesive. If selecting a Lloyds rated sheet (available around the world), it needs to have the BS-1088 or 6566 stamp or label on it.

    Next, select a real epoxy, not a rebadged product, like that found at JamesTown. That stuff (likely West) will blush at the mere mentioning of humidity. Try the goo from bandbyachtdesigns.com, Bateau.com and epoxyproducts.com, you'll pay less and they're less prone to blushing too.

    Most every lumber supplier can order what you need, even if they don't carry it normally. Talk to their purchasing agent and get him to toss some of what you need on their next delivery. You'll likely save on shipping and it'll improve their purchasing power too, so both you and they win. I seem to remember offering you, a few locations for you to find marine plywood and lumber, some time back. Did you find one that can work with you?

    As mentioned, yep, there's plenty of alternatives to plywood, though once you price the options, you'll quickly see why plywood is still so commonly used.
     
  12. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

  13. the brain
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    the brain Senior Member

    I will expect the round 2 floor to last longer than a few years. looks like I'm forced to get marine PW.

    here's the fiberglass rosin I used. I only used the rosin no fiberglass matting was used.

    I started w/ soaking the edges of PW then next day soaked the top, third day soaked the bottom after soaking the wood it looked waterproof.

    can I use this same rosin alone (I'm familiar w/ mixing it) on marine PW or is matting reqiured?
     

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  14. ondarvr
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    Polyester resin can't be used without glass, but that's not your immediate concern. Bondo resin typically has wax in it, so if you leave it long enough for it to cure tack free, you need to sand every square inch of the surface for anything to bond to it.
     

  15. Canracer
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    Canracer Senior Member

    That Bondo brand polyester is the worst. I don't know what it's good for, but my first guess is it's nothing.
     
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