Re timbering lapstrake/clinker boat

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by tradventure, Sep 20, 2006.

  1. tradventure
    Joined: Sep 2006
    Posts: 2
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Tasmania

    tradventure New Member

    I am about to undertake the restoration of an 18' clinker rowboat for a community organisation. Originally timbered with 8" between centres it has at some stage been retimbered with the new frames centred between the old frames. Unfortunately sixty years on we wish to retimber the entire vessel as she was originally. This will leave us with a lot of unplugged nail holes in the plank laps where we intend to remove and not replace the sister ribs. What should we do? We could plug them from both sides, but this would leave a lot of small end grain areas, or someone may suggest a miracle filler (not a great believer in miracles either). Any suggestions?
     
  2. waikikin
    Joined: Jan 2006
    Posts: 2,440
    Likes: 179, Points: 73, Legacy Rep: 871
    Location: Australia

    waikikin Senior Member

    Stick a copper nail in the hole/s & rove the sucker up, the fastenings should be though the "land" of plank to plank, theres probably 2x intermediate fastenings between timbers/ribs any way so another should do no harm- it can but help.Jeff.:)
     
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
    Posts: 19,126
    Likes: 498, Points: 93, Legacy Rep: 3967
    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Scantlings, for a lapstrake craft of those dimensions, would place three roves or clenches between each frame, below the waterline and two above. The frames will probably be screwed with # 10's which should be plugged with a peg and sanded flush. The peg should be of similar wood as the planking, which can be glued if you like, but isn't necessary if fitted correctly.
     
  4. tradventure
    Joined: Sep 2006
    Posts: 2
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Tasmania

    tradventure New Member

    Thanks Par,
    Thats what I was thinking of doing. It's just that I was wondering if this approach will cause any problems further down the track with all those small areas of exposed end grain. Obviously we would coat them to protect them from the elements, but would it be an idea to cap them with a samll version of a wooden deck plug? Or is that just making more trouble than its worth?
     

  5. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
    Posts: 19,126
    Likes: 498, Points: 93, Legacy Rep: 3967
    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    If the planking is solid lumber and not encapsulated, just prime and paint. If it's a plywood planked boat then epoxy will seal the end grain, with penetrating goo (CPES) the better product. Unless you have some poor fits on the plugs, you'll not have trouble. I'm guessing you'll paint over all these "extra" fastener holes, along with the rest of the hull, which if kept in good condition will keep things dry enough.
     
Loading...
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.