Quick, Easy 3-Man Canoe Plans

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by Submarine Tom, Jan 26, 2013.

  1. Submarine Tom

    Submarine Tom Previous Member

    Anyone have experience waxing a mahogany hull?

    The door skin I'm planning to use would likely benefit from a good rubbing in an effort to reduce surface drag.

    Wouldn't hurt to seal up the grain either.

    Something that would be available from the local lumber/hardware store that we're limited to for mateial acquisition and inexpensive.

    A small block of beeswax perhaps or even paraffin?
     
  2. El_Guero

    El_Guero Previous Member

    Wax is wax.

    But, floor wax is hard to beat.
     
  3. Submarine Tom

    Submarine Tom Previous Member

    Wax is wax, how true.

    The trick in this case is price.

    Pretty sure it's going to be paraffin.
     
  4. Petros
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Petros Senior Member

    use fast drying gloss latex paint, it will go on faster, fill the grain faster and yield a smooth surface. It should dry fast enough to not be an issue, especially if you have a sunny day when it is applied.
     
  5. Submarine Tom

    Submarine Tom Previous Member

    Too expensive for the race monetary limit.
     
  6. Petros
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: Arlington, WA-USA

    Petros Senior Member

    go to the paint department and ask for the mismatched/returned colors. They will usually give it to you for free, or charge you a dollar. All places that mix paint have them and regulations require it to be treated as toxic waste and is costly to dispose of. Usually lots of nice stuff, but in colors not "popular". I had a really nice boat painted purple and bright orange from such free sources. The more usual and bright the colors the better.
     
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  7. Submarine Tom

    Submarine Tom Previous Member

    NOW we're talking!

    Thanks Petros.

    The brushs don't count because they're a tool and don't become part of the boat.

    Love this forum!
     
  8. Submarine Tom

    Submarine Tom Previous Member

    "Miss-tints" is what they're called here.
     
  9. Submarine Tom

    Submarine Tom Previous Member

    Ancient Kayaker,

    Got a game changer yesterday.

    The starting position is a lottery so, we should use the entire four hours to build.

    That has changed my thinking.

    Cost and weight being significant factors I'm thinking plastic on frame.

    We can rip lots of strips from 2 X 4's and tie them together with twine.

    Get rid of the outriggers and the sit on top.

    This is where you come in: a three hole kayak.

    The frames could be cut from 3/8" ply efficiently enough.

    But a stable design is needed for us to build to.

    I can take templates to the competition.

    I'm thinking a stensile that would mark out the frames each one cut from the next.

    Funny, can't seem to find a three holer about 24' long...
     
  10. Petros
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: Arlington, WA-USA

    Petros Senior Member

    the only three holers I know of are native style used for hunting; there are free plans at this website:

    http://www.arctickayaks.com/Plans/PlansKodiak_3Kayak.htm

    [​IMG]

    Three holers are pretty beamy, I would not make it as long as the native example, it will be very difficult to steer it (they actually put pivots in the keel to allow the hull to curve to improve turning). I would guess about 18 to 20 ft would be good, 38 to 40 inch max beam. Use 1x4 gunwale stringers, which will give the hull most of its strength, about 8 or 9" of rocker so it will turn without too much effort. lashing the stringers is the traditional way to assembly the frame, use of sheet plastic and packing tape will work fine, just watch out for punctures during launch (no one gets in until it is floating, get in one at a time with the others bracing it).

    I would go for a slightly wider beam and a flatter bottom than shown on the native kayak plans, the natives that used this example were very skilled and spent their life learning how to hunt in them. That would not be any of us.
     
  11. Petros
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: Arlington, WA-USA

    Petros Senior Member

    pdf three hole kayak plans;
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Manfred.pech
    Joined: Apr 2010
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    Location: EU

    Manfred.pech Senior Member

  13. Submarine Tom

    Submarine Tom Previous Member

    Manfred,

    I like it of course but I'd like to use kayak style paddles and those cross members could get in the way.

    A big advantage of going with a kayak design is no outriggers which are terrible in traffic...

    The skin (plastic) on frame is low in material, weight and cost, easy to build - less nailing, screwing and no glue or sealant.
     
  14. Manfred.pech
    Joined: Apr 2010
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    Location: EU

    Manfred.pech Senior Member

    Yes, that seems to be the best solution. If you use kayak style paddles the forces on the hull in the water are more consistet (smoother) and you might have less wetted area. Please have a look at the vid from 9 minutes on: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYopf-7Gu0s
     

  15. Submarine Tom

    Submarine Tom Previous Member

    Manfred,

    I figured that was the video piece you had in mind.

    Speaks volumes doesn't it.

    You saw how much ground the double blades made up to almost catch the fire dept. winning team.

    The following year (last year) it was a short, single blade boat that won again over a double blade style.

    Only time will tell my friend.
     
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