Putting it all together.

Input is appreciated.

I didn't say that I've never reused a nylock. I'm just choosing to wait to tighten the steering wheel nut and install the cover until I'm fairly assured that I won't have to loosen it again. After all, you can only pop the cherry once.

Remounting the motor starts a whole string of events. I've got some cable boots ordered to go over the motor controls where they enter the splashwell. The motor has to be off to connect the steering cable because of the minimum width of the splashwell. Once the cable is partially in, I can hang the motor on the transom. I need the cable boot on first though as the one I'm selecting is not the split type. Other things to happen after motor install are permanent fuel tank installation and final bilge pump plumbing. My plan is to have the bilge pump dump into the splash well and the plumbing wil be in close proximity to the fuel tank filler and vent lines and could intefere fuel tank insertion. The fuel tank is 18 gallons and is a very snug fit under the splashwell.

 

Polishing Stainless Steel.

Well, hey! Look here, I'm in the boatbuilding section! Actually, I asked Jeff to be moved this direction. A few projects and milestones going on right now. First and foremost is the addition of hull ID numbers to my boat hull.

Since I have additional parts enroute that will be arriving in a matter of days, I am going to exersize patience and NOT through everything together just so I can get it wet. I feel like I've gotten somewhat fixated on my bilge pump. I want it installed and spewing properly before the dunk. The area that I plan to put in at is calm and protected, but it's all No Wake zone. I'll have to go out on the Niagara River to open her up and there is a fair bit of current and sometimes quite a bit of chop from other traffic. If it was just me, I might trailer to a smaller area lake, but a buddy is going to provide chase and his boat is in this area. This is setting me up for launch in a week and change.

Here is an alternative steering wheel. It's the non-airbag version. What do you think? It's sort of Popeyeish. I've gotten favorable comments from the few people that have seen it, but i think it falls on the comical/cartoonish side of town. At least in this aplication.



Regarding polishing stainless steel, I may have bit off more than I want to chew. MY initial attempts do bring out a shine, but the brushed stainless surface is still very prevalent. Below is the raw piece before any polishing.



This next one is just a few minutes with a buffing wheel and red jewelers(?) compound. I am using a buffing wheel, not a buffing pad if that makes sense. It certainly gives a luster, but it is far from a polished surface.



This last photo is just where I left off to reconsider my options. In the upper left portion of the plate I made attempts at using very sand paper to take the brush marks out with out mush success. I used 1200 first with WD40 as a cutting lubricant. I've used this before on fittings and hardware. The WD suspends the particles and keeps the paper clean. 1200 was too fine and I dropped to 600 which did a better job of cutting and left a more visible cut pattern, but still left the brushed finish after a fair bit sanding. I'm thinking that if I want a truely polished surface, I may need to start coarser than 600 grit and work through the finer grits. I'm open to input if anyone has suggestions.

 

Stainless and other tough metals need abrasives that can take the job. Most hand rubbing goo's just can't get it done. You just clean the surface, but not remove tool scratches. You need a real abrasive cutting compound. Jewelers rouge (the red stuff) will just piss you off. Generally you use 2 different types of cutters, a coarse and a fine to remove surface imperfections, then finish up with a polish.

You could just pickup some "Flitz" stainless polish, but I'll be this makes all the scratches shin pretty, rather then remove them. The special stainless compounds are usually green.

 

I've done a bit of this.

In order.
-wet sanding..start with 600 or 700 preferably then goto 1000. If you can get away without sanding-great.
-heavy stainless compound. Green
-fine stainless compound,chrome oxide.Usually all in one bar,white
-calcium aluminate,hard to find BUT the ultimate in mirror finish.
-wax

The compound bars are quite cheap-$4-10..a little bit goes a long way

 

Nice Boat

Hi LP I was just looking around the forum and found your thread I'd like to congratulate you on a great job, nice work. Can't wait to see a picture of her on the water. Sounds like a pain in the rear getting license in NY here in Iowa it's real simple. You just walk into the court house tell them you built a homemade boat, the cost depends on the length. They type out the papers and give you your stickers and your on your way in less than 10 minutes. You make your own HIN plate and fasten it to the transom, you have to make or bye Stickers for the bow and put OR on the stern and your legal, no inspection or nothing. I guess that's why its OR operator responsible not RO responsible operator.

Great Job

Dave T

 

What, no comment on the wheel? Starting the SS research.

I was going to be confused, but I see the reversed the order of the sand paper.

Guess I'll try to track down some green and white compound. The 600 grit was only beginning to cut the stainless. My You tube research has some people starting with as rough as 220 grit. Funny, all of the videos talk about color of compound, but none say what the product is. One video starts with a black compound, goes to white and finishes with greeen. I guess it's time for more research.

There is always more fun lurking around every corner.

 

It's not really too difficult here in NY. It just takes time. You have to mail off your application for hull numbers with with a set of duplicate photos of the boat. When you get tired of waiting you make a phone call and the guy says, "Yeah, your name sounds familiar." Then they show up at your boat with an engraving pen and you get a hull and a piece of paper that goes to the DMV and you walk out with a registration the same day and your boat is legal. No real inspection at all. I few weeks later and a title comes in the mail and now you're even more legal.

 

Being legal is boring. Wheres your spirit of adventure.

Running from the police is great fun.

 

That's what my brother says. They'll be letting him out in a couple of years.

 

I believe I have a polishing plan, now. I stepped up through paper grades all of the way to 220 grit. This takes the metal down through the brushed finish fairly quickly. I'll hit it next with 400 grit. I found some tripoli compound in the shop and that buffs out the 400 grit marks. I have some grey compound that brings out the shine very nicely. I will be tracking down some emery compound (the coarsest compound) to see how it deals with the 220 grit marks and the brushed finish in the hopes of illiminating at least one of the steps. I've gotten some areas down through the brush finish and when polished, they do like nice. The only portion that is approaching mirror finish is a small area below the empty screw hole below the the narrowest section.



Admittedly, I have a ways to goes, but it feels manageable now. A couple of hours sanding per piece, followed half an hour of buffing sounds doable. The results will be nice and will rival a chomed finish without the expense.

 

Put it in the water.

 

Have patience, my good friend.

 

Ille bet you got real low blood pressure and fall asleep infront of the telly.

 

You got the first part right. The second part would just be sad.

Tom Bodett has left the light on for me and I see it at the end of the tunnel. :idea: The day approaches and I will be ready for it.

 

Oooh not sure if I should ask for elaboration.

Raining here now very hard, air con been on in the bedroom for an hour or more.

11 47 PM

Good night