Polynesian Flat Boats

I forgot to say, you can use a low density PE foam, 20 to 30kg/cu meter is fine, the higher densities are rock hard, or it feels that way.

You won't have too much floatation usually not enough.

Don't make the thing too pretty or it will end up in the showcase... Some of the spray jobs are awesome.

 

Thanks for the tips Fanie.

Let's get through the construction stage first...then we'll worry about the beautification . Is it wise to paint or add decals prior to glassing or after? I have a little bit of experience in surfboard glassing where we would actually apply decals after the wrapping process, but prior to the glassing. Is fiberglass wrapping required on this type of application? If so, any suggestions?

Elika

 

The best would be if you can find someone that can vacuum form the whole thing one shot. It will be lighter and stronger than a hand layed up flat boat.
You should save around 25% on the glass and resin weight.

If you do however do it by hand, it is recommended that the whole thing is also done in one endless process and layers must be applied one after another before the previous layer has hardened completely. If a layer is left to cure fully then the next layer may want to delaminate under some conditions.

While the last layer is applied a material called peel ply is added as if you glass it in too. When cured the peel ply gets pulled off and this leaves a texture that is easier to finish off neatly than had you not added it. It is the preperation and the finishing that is the hardest to do. The actual glassing is just donkey work.

If you are going to use the PE foam, prior to begin laying the glass the foam should be wetted out properly first. This will ensure good bonding between the foam and glass.

I suggest you make a few small layups first before you jump in the deep side and just let rip.

You will want the longest possible cure time to work with the glass / resin.

Maybe I should first ask what is the size of the flats boat you plan to make ?

 

I came across some stuff by DOW that is 10"D x 20"W x 96"L and holds at least 600lbs. each one. To keep things really simple and less labor intensive (family, work, freediving ya know), I envisioned the final project at 10" x 40" x 96" which seemed a bit wide.

I noticed that the billet edges resembled "toung-in-groove" type fencing (the edges were not flat). I don't think billets were designed for "toung-in-groove" application so I figured I would have to cut the edges to place them side by side and bond them. I finally decided to streamline things and go with a 30" total width to keep it easy to carry down the coastal trails single- handedly. The narrower design will allow for gained speed and slightly more maneuverability.

I will compensate for the decreased cargo area by inserting attachments for netting, tuna and kelp clips, etc. on the deck for tying down. This will allow me to strap game fish lengthwise along with my gear while I kneel or sit. I use this method currently on a modified longboard I bought at CostCo for $99.00. What a deal! Gotta love wholesale stores.

Billets don't sit flush side-by-side do they? The only reason I ask is to cut down on cutting time. I'm sticking with 30"W but if in fact they do sit flush, I would only have to cut two edges vs. four.

Final Specs
Length: 96"
Width: 30"
Thickness: 10"

I have someone to assist me with the airbrush painting so things are looking up.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks


- Elika

 

I would think a bit wider would also be a bit more stable... I had a 1m wide canoe that sat properly on the water. While you're rowing the narrower is ok, but you have to watch it it you're just floating.

I later added a trolling motor and a battery to the canoe I had, that worked quite well. Go too lazy o row

 

You are right Fanie. I took your advice and am reverted baack to the original 40" width. This made more sense especially for its intended use.

Bottom line is that I need stability over speed. I will still have to tie down fish lengthwise or slighlty angled now but at least I have piece of mind in knowing that the whole thing won't flip over when boarding and unboarding half a mile offshore. Thanks for bringing me to my senses.

I just found out that my coworker has a guy that does commercial vacuum forming and is within driving distance (1 hour away).

Thanks again for all your assistance, it is much appreciated.

Elika

 

Be sure to put some pics up ok...

I personally would look at around 4m length if you're going to go through surf. Again, the canoe was 4m500, and just a comfy length especially if you take someone with.

 

We'll do. The areas I typically launch from have minimal surf and very close to the shore.


Elika

 

You can use polyester foam if you use epoxi/glass. The type of extruded polyester foam (XPS) sheet that are used for ground insulation would be good for your purpose. You must however use epoxi on XPS. The solvent in some other plastics like polyester will dissolve polyester foam.

The foam Fanie suggests is better, but also more expensive and can be difficult to find. Epoxi is however more expensive than polyester.

I made a windsurfing board with polyester foam blocks and epoxi/glass 25 years ago. It's still holding up and it's used by my children nowadays when playing in the sea. It's been stored outdoors during this time.

UV radiation kills plastics, so it's important to paint the board.

Hope I'm not creating too much confusion,

Erik

 

Sorry I havent read all previous posts,
What you describe is a paddle board, about the displacement of a large windsurfer, they were very popular in the 60's and 70's with snorkel divers, made out of light plywood and propelled with a paddle or by hand lik a surfboard, you could likely find plans in a popular mechanics or DN Goodchild website.
Dan
http://dansdories.googlepages.com