Polyester Resin Floor Coating

Discussion in 'Materials' started by FishTales, Aug 11, 2004.

  1. FishTales
    Joined: Aug 2004
    Posts: 6
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    Location: Lamar, PA

    FishTales Junior Member

    I am new to the Board am in the middle of re-building an older SeaNymph CenterConsole Aluminum boat. I am replacing the floor and am considering using PT plywood and coating the surface and edges with a polyester resin to waterproof and then using marine grade vinyl flooring. I have 5 gallons of Koppers Polyester Resin 3301-10 made in Oct 1974 which is still liquid believe it or not and would like to use it to save costs of buying new resin. Seems usable and will probably thin with some styrene monomer to increase absorption into wood. I formerly (30 years ago) worked as a reinforced plastics chemist and saved a few buckets of experimental resins when I left that industry to possibly mold a kayak or canoe which never happened. Now I can possibly use it for this project depending upon your advice. I still remember that it is catalyzed with MEK peroxide and also needs promoted with Cobalt Napthalene (any other promoters recommended and a source for purchase?). I have been reading the I may need to add a wax additive to insure that the surface doesn't stay tacky. Any advice from others who are more recently experienced with playing with polyester resin systems?

    Should I scrap my idea and buy some new stuff??

    Thanks in advance for any advice.

  2. ARS Marine inc.
    Joined: Aug 2004
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    Location: Berkeley IL "U.S.A."

    ARS Marine inc. ARS Marine inc.

    Fish :
    Thats Cool That it is still Liquid after 30 Years!
    You must of kept it in a dark cool Place?

    But I Had 5 Gallons, That was Two Years old and was still liquid.
    I tested Before Layup, First batch Didnt Kick
    Added some Cobalt To the second batch was the wright color was tacky for quit a while THEN THE **** ALLMOST STARTED ON FIRE :!:
    So I thrue the Crap Away :mad:

    Purchased another 5 Gallon can and have 2 gallons left.

    And you are correct about the wax being added, The glass with out the wax is laminating Resin It will have a thin layer of tacky . That is so you dont have to sand in between coats. Finishing resin has wax and something else in it to make it Glossy and the top layer Hard.

    You can give the Guy I got my stuff From
    He is located in the U.S. Chicago IL 60163
    Peter at Eager Plastics
    Telophone# (773)927-3484
    And Tell Him George Pataki.
    Sent you

    . :)
  3. FishTales
    Joined: Aug 2004
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    Location: Lamar, PA

    FishTales Junior Member

    Thanks George. Sounds like you had a similar experience. Resin was kept in a crawl space under a house-- cool and dark. Was in 5 gal metal cans. Only one survived-- 3 others set up. Will give Peter a call and let you know how it goes.

  4. FishTales
    Joined: Aug 2004
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    Location: Lamar, PA

    FishTales Junior Member

    Amazingly it worked. :) Ordered components, MEK, Cobalt and wax, from Peter and tried a couple of formulations. 1.5% Co and 2%MEK worked good in the AM when the air temps were around 60 degrees. Dropped back to 1% and 2% in the PM when things warmed up to 70.

    Have attached a pic of the floor after second coat. I assume that all I need to do now is lightly sand off the wax prior to applying adhesive for marine vinyl. Any tips on ordering that? I was going to order from Cabelas for the points unless someone has a better source.

    Just wanted to thank you for the help. Boards like this make home projects fun!! :D


    Attached Files:

  5. tja
    Joined: Sep 2004
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    Location: canton oh

    tja Senior Member

    I would look for plywood called XL Panels. This brand of plywood is preasure treated then kiln dried to 13 percent moisture. It's guarenteed not to rot or delaminate for life. If you use this material there is no need to coat the wood with anything other then carpet, Tom.
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