Pirate Ship computer lofted ready for build

The peak halyards are going to put some serious load on the jaws by the time you get any tension on the sails, the sprit and jib boom are a joke, and what the hell is going to hold all of that up in the air? I hope this not a scale drawing.

 

Has anybody ever got anything nice to say on this forum? Constructive criticism?!

 

Yes, all the time. As to the constructive criticism, well how about decreasing the length of the fore gaff so that sail can actual stand, as drawn it'll just fall off baddy. A deeper purchase on that fiddle will likely be necessary, considering the area the topsal can hoist. A reduction in sail area seems in order to say the least and lastly, as far as this post goes, the scarf in the stem assembly is backwards for good marine engineering. If it was reversed, from the direction shown, it wouldn't ship water directly into the joint underway or in the event of a failed stopwater or caulk line.

 

Wow! Reckon a fair amount of first impressions and letting those go very freely!

How doe's anyone make scantling judgements when you need displacement fundamentally? Actually nobody can. So what's going on here? What size and weight have you assumed it to be? Whose scantling rules are you using? and how can you use them without knowing the displacement?

Secondly regarding stiffness, the diagonal bracing across the whole deck and hull is completely ignored. (I know this is not 18th century but was used in the later 19th century and much more effective it was found too!). It replaced the idea of localised lodging and hanging knees.

Hanging knees are specified at the mast partners used along with pillars in this area. Tie bolts across partners etc also. Plywood bulkheads will be used in the way of accommodation dividers.

Stringers and other longitudinal structure is also Eucalyptus.This is a hardwood and heavier, denser, stiffer and stronger than white oak. Always taken into account!

The planking timber is Eucalyptus, 2in whales. This is a hardwood and heavier denser and stronger than oak. The remaining hull planking is 1.5 in broadleaf mahogany once again a hardwood, not typical softwood planking. Absolutely thick enough for the frame spacing and displacement of the boat. Further although not looked at as part of the structure the nylon/epoxy sheathing will add further stiffness.

Mast steps are for transmitting vertical compression loadings into the structure. These are bulk standard wooden sailing boat of the date and size. Hard dense wood clear of bilge water and thru bolted to the keel onto of hardwood floors. Would be interested in seeing any other design?

Rig bulk standard for the date including the lead angle of the throat and peak halliards. Once again based on Howard Chapple rigs of American schooners. Which references are you using?

I've been designing and building boats all my life and have never had anything but success. That is hundreds of designs mainly steel but wood also.

Suggest these 'experts' have assumed the boat is much heavier and larger than it actually is!

Always worth double checking and see if their criticism is correct. Just when you do let them know.

For what it's worth I've used recognised scantling rules for the structure, studied every book on the smaller local schooner that I can get my hands on ever since I was a child. And this is a design I hope to build for myself later in life!

 

DCocky:- Your right small schooner 1750s but surely whatever they could get their hands on. No purpose built pirate ships, privateeers yes. Anyway good eye catcher.

Tad:- stern tube always a problem thru the deadwood, could be slightly smaller. Deadwood is massive from a structural point of view. Nothing unusual with that.

Eucaliptus:- Which one of the 50 species are you concerned about as each is as different as chalk and cheese?

Par:- Is 50 ft substantial to you? Did you think it was a lot larger by any chance? The rig is bulkstandard. It is a graphic without detail however the proportions are how I intend the rig to be. As close to the original as possible. Checked out loads of sail plans from the Smithsonian. Best I could do unless you know better? Stem and deadwood although good timber is available it it straight. That is the influence behind them.

Gonzo:- The picture is a graphic. Not intended to show rigging layout. Once again proportions based on the Watercraft Collection from the Smithsonian.

P Greenwood:-What?

Par:- Long gaffs on the foresail was typical. Short gaffs much more unusual. See Smithsionian or Greenwich collections. This sail design is under rigged or conservative for the date and craft. Its got a low centre of effort for it's area. Basically a schooner is great for reaching (prevailing sailing conditions) and crap going to windward.

If I wanted good performance windward performance I'd choose some other modern design but I like the look of this!

Upper scarf on the stem could be changed round with benefit and the fiddle on the topmast could be lengthened. So I'll update those.

 

Velsia good for you. Glad somebody keeping things on a reasonable level!

 

Harold Burnham in Essex, Massachussetts, USA recently built a very traditional 55 ft pinky schooner. Information about the boat at http://schoonerardelle.com/a-brief-history-of-pinky-schooners Photos of the build can be seen in the blog at http://boatbuildingwithburnham.blogspot.com/

 

The displacement is easy to estimate with the designed waterline. I am not sure what you mean that the picture is graphic for the rigging. If you ask for opinions on a drawing, that is all we can base it on.

 

Thanks! will have a look at it. If its rigged authenticly it will have similar rig to this design. Pinky's were around in the 1750s for long linning on the Grand Banks and were even used as privateers in the American war of Independance.

 

Gonzo that's not the Waterline that's the extent of the sheathing! For sure if someone knows about it then would be interested in hearing there comment. By the way what was your estimate of the displacement?

 

LOD is about 15 m/ 50'?

 

Just had a look at the Pinky. The proportions of the sails head/foot/ leach/luff are correct but the areas are way under. (1100 sq ft) Maybe influenced by Coastgauard regs? The foresail has a long gaff

Can see lots of sail plans for Pinky Schooners in the Smithsonian redrawn from original spar dimensions or sailmakers dimensions by Howard Chapple

 

Gonzo you and your mates have just rubbished a design regarding its rig and structure not knowing what length or displacement it is?

 

What? What yourself!
I suggest you take a look at The Schooner Lynx. There are drawings of originals and modern rigs. There is a difference because there is no one to sail the rig as original and because crew size and modern sail cloth has changed things. Having designed, built and sailed American schooners for quite a few years now(I own one) I do have an idea what they should look like.
So is the scale a secret?...is it actually a model for your desk?...So are you going to tell us the big secret? One would assume that if there is no length specified that it is something close to the original types...wouldn't they?

 

There is no LOA indicated and I used the scale on the drawing. However, you say it is a "graphic". Since I don't know what you mean by "graphic" I am asking you to corroborate the dimensions.